I tried the new 720-mile scenic sleeper train from Milan – it’s a £60 bargain ...Middle East

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She emerged like a mythical wonder at 5.58pm. Surrounded by cliffs densely spotted with houses painted in pastel and earthy shades and crowned by thick puffs of white cloud, the lake’s mystique created a mini wave of excitement.

Passengers politely jostled for space in the aisles’ pull-down windows that were a welcome quirk of decades-old carriages. The train passed a yellow-lemon bell tower and wide, red-roofed buildings before one corner of Lake Como came into full view.

We were just a few minutes’ drive north from a stop at Como San Giovanni station, and only an hour and a quarter into a so-far surprisingly smooth journey. There were more striking views ahead, despite 11 of my 19-plus hours on the inaugural European Sleeper train between Milan and Brussels being completed in darkness.

The train passes Lake Como, with a stop at Como San Giovanni station (Photo: imageBROKER/Getty)

It’s a route of around 720 miles and includes six stops, plus Milan and Brussels, with three more to be added later this year, including two in the Netherlands. Como (with high-speed trains to Italian cities, including Venice), Lugano (for the lake), Göschenen (for skiing in Andermatt), Arth Goldau (for Lake Lucerne), Cologne and connections from Milan Porta Garibaldi (high-speed to Bologna, Florence, Rome and Naples) will draw passengers, as well as Milan itself.

Sleeper tickets start from €69.99 (£60) one-way for a berth in a six-person couchette, without a mattress (which is offered in “comfort class”), but with sheets and a blanket. Or from €49.99 (£42.90) for just a seat in a six-person compartment. Children under four travel free, without their own berth; children under 12 travel at a child rate.

In September, the most scenic portions when departing from Milan include Lake Como, the mauve of twilight enveloping Lake Lugano and the final minutes into Cologne station. We waited eagerly for the grey spires of its Gothic cathedral to appear, then grow hulk-like as we crossed the Rhine.

Cologne cathedral was among the stand-out views en route (Photo: Jorg Greuel/Getty)

On the route from Brussels, there is also daytime Alpine scenery as the train travels along the Gotthard route, a transport corridor through the Swiss mountains that is also used by panoramic services (darkness was falling as we travelled from Milan in September).

European Sleeper, a private Belgian-Dutch operator, has gathered much of its funding from small investors since it launched its first service in 2023. As of last March, that launch route between Berlin and Brussels has extended southwest to Paris. Three years on, it also offers a route linking Brussels and Prague (since March 2024); it has attempted a seasonal service from Brussels to Venice (February to March 2025; there are no plans to revive it), and, as of 9 September, runs a connection between Milan and Brussels.

In August, it announced that it will add sleepers between Brussels and Copenhagen and Malmo (Sweden). 2029 should see the start of its long-awaited Brussels to Barcelona route, which, co-founder Chris Engelsman told me, has most recently been stalled by a lack of suitable carriages.

Despite its challenges, European Sleeper estimates it will carry 200,000 passengers in 2026 and forecasts a revenue of €25m (£21.5m). Since 2023, it has welcomed more than 335,000 customers. Given that British visitors make up Spain’s biggest inbound tourism market, and around 10–15 per cent of European Sleeper’s passengers, many may be interested to know Engelsman’s next big plan.

“I would think that we start a new hub. So, let’s say, if Barcelona works well, then it would make a lot of sense to do a Barcelona to Milan train, too.

Six-person couchettes are the cheapest ticket option for those who want a bed (Photo: European Sleeper)

“The other ambition, that’s really long-term, is to run night trains from London directly.”

During previous European Sleeper launches, the first train departed from Brussels. The inaugural departure for this route was from Milan, having been created in partnership with Italian rail operator Arenaways. Italy’s rules caused the only lengthy stop, of around one hour and 15 minutes, at Chiasso in Switzerland. It was here, Engelsman said, that the locomotive we set off with had to be changed. But the driver made up time.

Our departure from Milan was another example of a push for efficiency. Doors were fastened, a whistle blew, and we were off at 4.45pm, right on time. All I’d had to do was get to the platform on time and board, quite the contrast from a low-cost flight out of the UK that was followed by a 50-minute wait at passport control in Milan.

Part of European Sleeper’s mission is to replace short-haul flights, and, while it can’t compete on speed, I began to appreciate its appeal compared with a budget airline. Its Milano Porta Garibaldi stop is around 1.5 miles north of the city centre, while Milan Malpensa, where I flew into, is 30 miles northeast of central attractions such as the Duomo.

Passengers were a mix of 20-and-30-somethings in groups, couples or travelling solo, and a smattering of people in their 40s, 50s and 60s. I spotted two parents with young children in tow, and one duo travelling with a Jack Russell.

Compartments are often sociable places, for groups of friends or families (Photo: European Sleeper)

Like most night train operators, European Sleeper has faced passenger criticism. On the review website Trustpilot, for example, it has an “average” rating from users of 2.9 out of five. Recent negative reviews focused on a three-hour-long delay and a lack of communication about that delay, or mentioned toilets being out of use, cramped compartments and poor food and drink options.

Engelsman said the company was working to address such issues. “If a locomotive breaks down [which can happen occasionally], the delay could easily be four hours or so. Then we inform people about it.

“We could do that more thoroughly; let’s say, we may have to automate it so that there’s an update every half an hour or so, or tell people what we are doing to solve it.”

As for food, there was no dining car on board, but menus with a QR code were placed in each compartment (I tracked down our friendly carriage steward, Patrick Bosmans, as the code wasn’t working). Options included breakfast boxes for €14.50 (£12.40) and “light meals” from €5.50 (£4.70).

Breakfast boxes are among the items you can order from the onboard menu, with food brought to compartments by a steward (Photo: European Sleeper)

Passengers on the launch service seemed accepting of small niggles, however. One couple, Lydia Syson, 59, and Martin Finn, 63, from London, had opted for a compartment for two. They had been using sleeper trains on and off for around 40 years. But it was their first experience with European Sleeper, which they’d used on their return from visiting a friend in Rome. Lydia said: “We try to avoid flying for environmental reasons. We ended up flying out, because we couldn’t [go by train] without an overnight stop. Then we saw this, and we rearranged our holiday so we could come back on the first sleeper.”

Martin added: “We enjoy train travel. You have to put up with a little bit of rough.”

For me, the roughest part was being woken up by a 1.16am shout of “passports” as border guards patrolled the train.

My shared sleeper compartment was roomy enough for three people, and our luggage (sharing with two others is €139pp (£119) one way). There were two plug sockets and four USB ports, and the electricity mostly worked while we were on the move. Wi-Fi, as we’d been told before departure, was not available.

Our beds were made up when we arrived, with new mattresses on top of the padded bunks. But the bedside reading lights didn’t switch on and the overhead light was supermarket bright. I also had a moment of panic after pulling the door across and finding that it stuck halfway (it required a swift sweep shut, then open, to shift it).

Martin summed it up, “It’s all been fine, but don’t expect luxury – it wasn’t a luxury price.”

On arrival in Brussels, just 20 minutes behind schedule, it was a five-minute walk to the Eurostar check-in area. I was already planning a return in the other direction, tempted by autumnal views of the Alps, perhaps with a stop in Como – then a high-speed connection to Venice for cicchetti.

The map of Europe’s sleeper rail revival may be slow to light up, with many blinkering lamps, but it’s filled with possibilities.

Booking it 

The writer was hosted by European Sleeper and Eurostar. One-way tickets for a berth in a six-person compartment start from €69.99 (£60), europeansleeper.eu. Departures from Brussels run on Wednesdays, Fridays and Sundays until 12 December and on Monday, Wednesday and Friday from 13 December. Eurostar tickets from £51 one-way in standard class or from £98 one-way in Eurostar Premier, eurostar.com. 

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