Bruce Friedrich beamed as he took the lectern at the inaugural Good Food Conference. It was September 2018, and as president and founder of the Washington, D.C.–based Good Food Institute, Friedrich was one of the leading voices advocating for alt-meat. Nearly 500 people had gathered at the University of California, Berkeley, including the biggest names in cellular agriculture—the would-be disrupters who envisioned slaughterhouse meat replaced with cuts made from the cells of cows, chickens, pigs, and fish.“We need a new agricultural revolution,” Friedrich announced. “That revolution is right here, right now. It’s in this room.”At the same time that these upstarts extolled the potential for m
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