Thanksgiving Is Trapped In Nostalgia for a Lost Era of Harvest Festivals. It’s Time to Reckon With the Reality of American Farming. ...Middle East

If fall is the season of agricultural cosplaying—apple picking, pumpkin carving, frantically posing in textiles developed before the advent of central heating—then Thanksgiving is the event toward which all the practice of September and October builds. Thanksgiving is many things, after all, but its aesthetic markers scream “harvest festival,” from the table settings to the dessert options. While the United States ditched seasonal eating somewhere around the middle of the twentieth century with the advent of refrigerated transport, seasonality comes roaring back each November in the apple, pecan, pumpkin, and cranberry pies.It’s hard to know how to feel about this ritualistic reminder of the

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