If the word "exfoliation" triggers bad memories of the harsh facial scrubs you once used as a teenager, you're not alone.
Exfoliation is an important part of any well-balanced skincare routine since it clears away dry, dead cells and makes room for your skin to shine. Still, many of us are intimidated by the process. We always have a dermatologist on speed dial here at Parade, so we reached out to Dr. Whitney Tolpinrud, MD, FAAD, to learn more about a genius facial exfoliation trick we wish we'd known about sooner.
Tolpinrud is a board-certified dermatologist who works as the medical director at Curology. While working with patients, she's see the good, the bad and everything in between, and she's developed a few tips for exfoliating effectively.
Knowing which method of exfoliation—chemical or physical—is best for your skin type is typically the first step in mastering your exfoliation routine. Tolpinrud breaks down the difference between the two techniques for us and explains how often you should be exfoliating your face.
Since exfoliation can irritate the skin when it's not done properly, the expert also shares tips on common facial exfoliation mistakes to avoid.
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Sometimes, exfoliation can be a scary word if you have sensitive skin. But fret not! Tolpinrud says there's a safe way to exfoliate without making your skin rebel, and it's called the "short contact" technique.
"This involves applying a chemical exfoliant, leaving it on for five to 10 minutes, then rinsing it off rather than leaving it on overnight," she tells Parade.
Some chemical exfoliants can be left on overnight, so it's always best to consult with a dermatologist if your skin is reactive. But in general, Tolpinrud says this method is best if your skin is easily irritated.
"Short contact application can provide some of the benefits of exfoliation while limiting exposure time, which may help reduce the risk of irritation," she explains.
Physical vs. Chemical Exfoliation: What's the Difference?
If you're into skincare, you've likely heard that there's a difference between chemical and mineral sunscreens. Similarly, there are physical and chemical methods of exfoliation, and they both get the job done in slightly different ways.
"Physical exfoliation removes dead skin cells through manual action, such as facial scrubs, cleansing brushes or professional treatments like microdermabrasion. One benefit is that results are often immediate, with skin feeling smoother and looking brighter after treatment," Tolpinrud says. "Professional procedures such as microdermabrasion may also help improve the appearance of fine lines, uneven texture and discoloration."
One thing to note? If you have sensitive skin or perform physical exfoliation too aggressively or too frequently, it can irritate skin.
Chemical exfoliation
Chemical exfoliation, on the other hand, uses ingredients such as alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs), beta hydroxy acids (BHAs) or enzymes to loosen and remove dead skin cells.
"These ingredients generally provide a more even exfoliation than scrubs and can help improve concerns such as acne, uneven skin tone, hyperpigmentation and signs of sun damage," Tolpinrud says.
As always, it's important to consult a dermatologist beforehand to make sure your skin can tolerate chemical exfoliation.
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There are three main factors to consider when determining how often you should exfoliate your face: your skin type, the products you're using and your skin's tolerance.
"For many people, exfoliating one to three times per week is a reasonable starting point," Tolpinrud says.
If you're using an at-home chemical exfoliant, especially products containing lower concentrations of alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs), she suggests exfoliating once or twice a week to start then "increase gradually if the skin tolerates it well."
"People with sensitive skin may benefit from exfoliating less frequently—more isn't always better," Tolpinrud says. "Over-exfoliation can lead to redness, dryness, irritation and a weakened skin barrier. Some research has also linked overly aggressive exfoliation habits with worsening rosacea symptoms in susceptible individuals."
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How To Exfoliate Without Irritating Your Skin
Before you start experimenting with different exfoliants, Tolpinrud says you should start with gentler options then gradually introduce ingredients.
"Lower concentrations of alpha hydroxy acids, for example, can help remove dead surface skin cells while being less disruptive to the skin barrier," she tells Parade. "For people who find traditional acids irritating, enzyme-based exfoliants may be a good alternative. These products can help improve skin texture and brightness while often causing less stinging or burning."
Steering clear of aggressive scrubbing techniques is another way to avoid potential irritation.
"Vigorous physical exfoliation can irritate the skin and compromise the skin barrier over time," Tolpinrud says.
Overall, if you experience redness, burning or persistent irritation, it's typically a sign that you should reduce the frequency of exfoliation or switch to a gentler approach.
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While building an exfoliation routine, it helps to have a go-to guide of some common mistakes to avoid any skincare mishaps. Below, Tolpinrud shares some of the biggest mistakes she sees clients making.
The derm says many people make the mistake of exfoliating too often.
"While exfoliation can improve skin texture and brightness, excessive exfoliation may damage the skin barrier, leading to redness, dryness, irritation and increased sensitivity," she warns.
2. Using products that are too strong
Stronger acids are not always more effective.
"Using potent exfoliants without proper guidance can increase the risk of irritation, peeling and post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation, particularly in sensitive skin or darker skin tones," Tolpinrud says.
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Your complexion can easily get confused if you throw too much at it at once.
"Pairing a physical exfoliant with a chemical exfoliant, such as scrubbing the skin and then applying an AHA, can compound irritation and barrier disruption," the derm says. "Although certain combination approaches may be appropriate under professional guidance, using multiple exfoliation methods together at home can contribute to excessive irritation, redness and over-exfoliation."
4. Skipping sunscreen
Sun protection is a critical part of any skincare routine, but it becomes even more critical while exfoliating.
"Exfoliation removes dead surface skin cells and can leave skin more vulnerable to UV damage. Daily broad spectrum sunscreen with SPF 30 or higher helps protect against sunburn, hyperpigmentation and premature skin aging," Tolpinrud explains.
5. Exfoliating irritated or inflamed skin
It's best to give your skin a break if you're already dealing with a rosacea flareup, eczema, dermatitis or another form of inflammation or irritation.
"Exfoliation may worsen inflammation and delay healing. In these situations, it can be helpful to first focus on barrier repair and allow the skin to recover before resuming exfoliation," Tolpinrud says.
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Dr. Whitney Tolpinrud, MD, FAAD, is a board-certified dermatologist who works as the medical director at Curology.Hence then, the article about i m a dermatologist this is the exfoliation trick i swear by was published today ( ) and is available on Parade ( Saudi Arabia ) The editorial team at PressBee has edited and verified it, and it may have been modified, fully republished, or quoted. You can read and follow the updates of this news or article from its original source.
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