The wholesale boutique might sound like a wistful ’90s flashback, but the proof is in the data that the model is still working, at least for now. According to Andrew Roth, CEO of Gen Z research firm Dcdx, the three legacy houses — Sherri Hill, Jovani, Ashley Lauren — totaled 96.4% of branded TikTok engagement across the nine major prom-adjacent labels tracked between February 2023 and May 2026. Sherri Hill alone made up 82.4%. Other labels tracked were Mac Duggal, Faviana, Revolve, Lulus, Princess Polly, and Anthropologie.
“We are not even thinking about [going DTC] at this point,” says Hill, who has reported double-digit annual sales growth for three consecutive years; a cumulative increase of 64.3% since 2022.
The yearly routine hasn’t changed much since the designer started making dresses in 2008: twice a year, Sherri Hill, along with the rest of the legacy prom houses, convenes at AmericasMart in Atlanta, where three full expo floors are dedicated to prom. Retailers, like Cruse of Miss Priss, attend in August to place their orders for the following year’s proms, and in April for homecoming.
For the model to work, the wholesaler-boutique relationship needs to stay in perfect balance, Hill and Cruse explain. Hill promises exclusivity to her boutiques (for example, another Sherri Hill retailer would not be allowed to open nearby Miss Priss), and in turn, Cruse moves her dresses.
“It’s just the model that works, in all honesty. We just found that this is what works best for us,” says Liza Greenberg, who has worked with Hill for a decade since her start as a prom dress model (she now runs sales for the brand).
Hundreds of miles north, in Manhattan’s Garment District, Abraham Maslavi runs the showroom for Jovani, the prom and bridal house his father founded in 1983. Jovani sold over 107,000 prom dresses this season alone, according to Felicia Garay-Stanton, who runs PR for the brand. Prom accounts for roughly 40% to 45% of Jovani’s annual sales; evening and mother-of-bride or groom collections take another 40%, with the rest going to homecoming, bridal, and couture.
Jovani’s prom dress prices can stretch up to $5,000 (its average dress costs $900; by contrast, many of e-tailer Princess Polly’s styles will only set you back $100) but, according to the designer, some of the brand’s strongest sales are in lower-income regions such as West Virginia, Arkansas, and Mississippi, where, despite per capita incomes well below the national average, the institution of attending prom is strong. “West Virginia is the poorest state per capita,” Maslavi says. “We sell so many dresses there. I was always bewildered. And it’s really that everyone helps that prom girl at this moment in her life to get the best dress. The whole family pitches in.”
Economist Jay Zagorsky, a professor at Boston University’s Questrom School of Business, has tracked the cost of attending prom — dress, suit, shoes, hair, nails, dinner, transportation — since 2014, after once being taken aback at prom ticket costs for his own children. To the surprise of many parents, he’s found that prom has remained one of the more affordable rituals, rising about 47% since 2000, against a 93% climb in the consumer price index. However, in 2026, tariffs did cause dress prices to spike by around 10%. Tariffs on imported fabric from China and India ran as high as 50%, Maslavi says, forcing Jovani to raise retail prices roughly 20%: its first meaningful price increase in roughly a decade. The brand absorbed the rest of the tariff cost itself.
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