MISSION BEACH – Just past the breaking waves, roughly two miles west of Belmont Park’s Giant Dipper roller coaster, the sandy ocean floor resembles an underwater desert.For divers, the area off Mission Beach known as Wreck Alley holds the key to life-affirming and haunting findings.Beneath the emerald haze of the Pacific Ocean, divers encounter massive looming silhouettes. The vast underwater desert is a graveyard of intentionally sunken ships that serves as a premier West Coast dive spot.According to Smithsonian Ocean, part of the Smithsonian National Museum of Natural History, approximately 3 million shipwrecks are scattered across the ocean floor worldwide. Many shipwrecks, whether they were intentionally sunk or were naval mishaps, now function as artificial reefs, providing habitats for marine life. Studies suggest thousands of intentional, large-scale wrecks were specifically designed for ecological restoration or tourism.For divers off the coast of San Diego, Wreck Alley serves as a nesting ground for new underwater habitats, as well as a premier diving destination.Wreck Alley’s undisputed crown jewel is a 366-foot Canadian destroyer. July 15 marks the 26th anniversary of the sinking of the HMCS Yukon, a refuge for marine wildlife and for divers alike.“The Yukon eclipses a lot of the other dive sites just because of its size and its magnitude,” said Zach Weisman, owner of Waterhorse Charters on Quivira Road. “It’s the newest wreck addition and the only warship. Warships are built with much more structural integrity and thicker hulls to withstand the battering of relentless ocean waves.”The Yukon was gutted and cleaned before the San Diego Oceans foundation scuttled the warship in 100 feet of water off Mission Beach to serve as an artificial reef. Even the sinking of the HMCS Yukon was dramatic. A day before, the warship flooded in rough weather, turning what was supposed to be an upright, highly orchestrated public show into a sea-worthy spectacle.Dive charter captain Weisman said the crew on board had to call a mayday to be rescued as the ship settled on its port side.The ship’s sideways orientation creates a challenge for the divers who venture inside.“All those cutouts that they designed for divers to swim directly through … well, now they go straight down to the sand,” Weisman explained. “Your brain thinks there might be doors where there aren’t and access panels where there shouldn’t be. It’s just not familiar, and that causes a little more challenge and risk.”Lora Meyer, founder and owner of Marissa Charters on Santa Clara Place, notes that the disorientation is a unique sensory experience.“It is definitely strange to see the toilets hanging at an odd angle,” said Meyer. “We really encourage our divers to ‘plan their dive and dive their plan.’ Staying on the outside is much less disorienting than going inside.”While the Yukon is the titan of Wreck Alley, it is far from the only attraction. The heart of Wreck Alley belongs to the Ruby E and the El Rey.The Ruby E, a former Coast Guard cutter, is known to locals as “San Diego’s Sweetheart.” Sunk in 1989, Ruby E sits upright in 85 feet of water and is blanketed by vibrant pink and purple strawberry anemones.Because it is one of Wreck Alley’s most visited sites, Waterhorse Charters maintains the mooring lines using materials donated by the Scripps Institution of Oceanography.“The Ruby E and Yukon mooring lines are actually on GPS chart plotters for everyone’s standard equipment,” Weisman said. “You’re not going to run over them at night and foul your propeller.”A few hundred yards south lies the El Rey, the alley’s oldest resident, which was sunk on April 2, 1987. For 35 years, the vessel was a kelp harvester for Kelco, a food-production company, Meyer said.“She was like the lawnmower of the ocean,” Meyer said. “The El Rey worked, cutting the tops of the kelp forests off to harvest for things like ice cream and toothpaste. Kelp is a great emulsifier.”Today, the El Rey is home to a resident Pacific electric ray — capable of delivering a jolt of up to 45 volts — that keeps divers very alert.Wreck Alley is also a place to get a feel for some of San Diego’s land-based history. When San Diego’s old Ingraham Street Bridge was demolished in 1992, its cement and rebar remnants were added to Wreck Alley by the California Department of Fish and Game’s Artificial Reef Program.
Colorful anemones on the HMCS Yukon in Wreck Alley. (Photo by Ashley Armstrong/Marissa Charters)Now it’s a big pile of rubble, and because it sits in shallower water — around 60 feet — it remains a rare Wreck Alley site accessible to entry-level open-water divers.On the other hand, not far from the old Ingraham Street Bridge, the NOSC Tower, an old U.S. Navy research platform that once resembled a miniature oil rig. A winter storm in 1988 ripped the top right off the structure, leaving what Weisman describes as a small, largely unremarkable site visited now mainly by lobster hunters.The transformation of the seafloor from sandy desert to thriving reef at Wreck Alley is a real phenomenon.“I have a saying about the ocean: stuff attracts stuff,” Weisman said. “You have a big metal structure, and then you get the polyps and the algae … then the anemones grow, and then the fish come. It’s an exponential effect.”That growth, however, is subject to the whims of the climate. Meyer points to a strong El Niño a decade ago that devastated the white plum anemones that once defined the Yukon.“Our giant kelp forests were mostly decimated, and without the kelp, many fish lost safe shelter,” she said.Despite those shifts, the wrecks continue to serve as nurseries, with studies showing they attract young and juvenile fish rather than displacing adults.Diving Wreck Alley is often a reality check for those used to the warmer waters of places like Hawaii or the Caribbean. Temperatures in San Diego’s offshore waters hover near 51 degrees Fahrenheit, making a wetsuit essential. Adding to the experience, an often thick murky marine layer can leave divers in near-darkness.“A light is a must-have,” Meyer said. “Without it, everything looks like a brown-red landscape. With a light, you see these vibrant reds and blues and purples. It brings the color spectrum back at 100 feet.”For Meyer and the crew of the Marissa, Wreck Alley is just the beginning of San Diego’s underwater inventory. While permits to sink additional vessels exist on paper, they have been stalled for years due to the multi-million-dollar cost of stripping ships of toxins like lead paint and fuel.“The last time they tried to add a wreck, it was denied by the state of California,” Weisman said. “The environmental study showed how beneficial the life was, but it was denied because they feared a negative impact. It’s a shame.”
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