Fashion has a real ’90s fixation right now—blame Ryan Muphy’s Love Story for that. For fall, designer Prisca Vera Franchetti was right on board with the sartorial mood. Her new collection draws inspiration from the decade, though she’s less focused on nailing its signature clean minimalism than on referencing key silhouettes and patterns from the era and making them feel appropriate for her modern-day customers. “The collection started off as very grungy, and you can definitely see that,” she said. “So many of the mood board images were from obscure shows in ’90s New York—these very dark, small shows.”
Sexy, going-out attire is definitely what Priscavera does best, so the new offering sees Franchetti translating ’90s elements into pieces that are ready to party. “I wanted to infuse a fun element back into fall,” she noted. “We had a little more adventure in the color palette—more layering and transparency.” The opening look, for one, was a laced-up low-cut top paired with a bleached pair of trousers—the 2026 version of what one wears to hit the clubs. She also designed a totally-sheer plaid slip dress, paired over pieces like a stud-trimmed black bra top and briefs, or a more demure lacy black square-neck dress with matching tights.
Outside of her bread-and-butter dresses, it was most refreshing to see Franchetti venture into separates. She designed a metallic-blue track pant with buttoned-up sides—“I liked the idea of sweatpants you can go out in,” she said—and ramped up her offering of outerwear too, including with a minty Mongolian lamb coat with a matching hand muff. “It was definitely driven by what I want to wear, and my definition of cool,” said Franchetti. Her little lace-trimmed slip dresses and fuzzy cropped cardigans are precisely the kind of things you’d see the cool, downtown crowd wearing for dinner at The Odeon (which, funnily enough, is having a moment thanks to the ’90s Love Story nostalgia).
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