Mexico’s crowd-free lakeside town with natural wonders and secret swimming spots ...Middle East

It was early afternoon as I walked along the quiet, mural-splashed streets of Bacalar in Quintana Roo, southeast Mexico. Arriving in this pueblos magico, or magic town, one of dozens of towns recognised by the Mexican government for cultural heritage, history or exceptional natural beauty – was a relief after a three-hour bus ride from Tulum. It already felt slower and more laid-back than coastal hotspots further north, such as Tulum, Cancún or Playa del Carmen.

Bacalar’s tranquillity is partly thanks to being away from the coast. The town is on the shore of a 26-mile-long, and up to 1.2-mile-wide, freshwater lagoon known as the Laguna de los Siete Colores – the Lagoon of Seven Colours. The name isn’t an exaggeration. The water shifts throughout the day from soft turquoise to deep cobalt, depending on the depth and how sunlight interacts with the white limestone bed.

But it’s more than just pretty. The lagoon is home to rare living stromatolites, ancient structures formed by microbes that grow up from the bottom. These are some of the oldest living organisms on Earth, found in only a handful of places worldwide, and they’re incredibly delicate. Signs around town remind people not to touch them.

The lake is at risk from more than overcurious visitors, however. Its greens and blues turned brown in 2020 when pollution and agricultural waste flowed into the lake during Tropical Storm Cristobal, an event from which it is still recovering.

The water is fed by underground rivers, which can create cenotes – or sinkholes – along its shores that are popular for swimming, kayaking, paddle boarding, or boating.

Among them is Cenote Azul, a 90-metre-deep hole surrounded by trees, with wooden docks and ropes to help you swim across. Unlike the cave-like, often crowded cenotes near Tulum and Playa del Carmen, this one felt tranquil and there were only a handful of other visitors when I arrived. Entry was around £1; life jacket rental £2.

Evenings were for slow walks by the lagoon or through the zócalo, the town’s main square. Beside it is the Fort of San Felipe, an 18th-century stone bastion built to defend against pirates. It houses a small but interesting museum with views over the lagoon (entry £4).

Around the square, shops sell beach clothes and crystals, and at dusk, street vendors fire up their griddles to make marquesitas – crispy rolled crepes stuffed with savoury and sweet ingredients, like cheese and Nutella.

In Bacalar, one of the best places to see the sunrise is Calle 18, a public pier on the lake – so that’s where I headed in the morning. The stillness, soft colours, and the mirror-like water made it one of the most magical moments of my trip. Watching life wake up on the lagoon inspired me to take a boat ride. The guide pointed out the mangroves, the stromatolites and three major cenotes: Esmeralda, Negro, and Cocalitos – each a different colour. “It was worse in 2020,” he said, referring to when the water turned brown.

We passed the Isla de los Pájaros (Island of the Birds), where migratory birds gather, and Canal de los Piratas, a narrow channel once used by pirates. There’s a rusting shipwreck here, and we anchored in a quiet stretch to swim. On the way back, I kept thinking about how much of Bacalar still feels intact – and how easily that could shift.

While it may still feel like a secret, that probably won’t last – a 60-room Marriott is under construction, and the Banyan Tree brand is expected to open a luxury resort here soon. The Tren Maya – a controversial, 966-mile rail project connecting destinations across the Yucatán’s pristine backcountry, from Cancún to Palenque – now stops in Bacalar, making it easier to reach.

It’s a familiar story. Bacalar feels how Tulum once did – quiet, local. Tulum was a sleepy beach town before it became a hub for wellness retreats, designer beach clubs, and hipster restaurants. Before that, it was Playa del Carmen. Before Playa, it was Cancun. Other visitors I met – a couple from Europe, families from Mexico City, long-term travellers passing through the Yucatán – were also seeking tranquillity in Bacalar.

There were plenty of laidback places to eat and drink around town. One night I sat under fairy lights at the waterfront La Playita with ceviche and a cold beer. Another, I had a round of tacos at Mr Taco. My last hurrah was La Catrina, a buzzy restaurant with live music and delicious cocktails. For plant-based food with a view, Mango y Chile was a good bet, while El Manatí, a shaded café-gallery filled with local art and information about the lagoon, was ideal for brunch.

Quintana Roo offers more than relaxation and feasting, however. Those keen to explore the region’s heritage could book a tour to one of the closest Mayan ruins. Kohunlich archaeological site is around an hour by car from Bacalar and includes a mask-filled temple.

Ichkabal is also about an hour’s drive away and it only opened to tourists in January. It features several pyramids and temples, including one that is 40 metres tall.

But for those staying in Bacalar, the lake is the star attraction.

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On my final morning, I returned to one of the docks just to sit. I dangled my feet in the water, watching the colours shift as the sun moved higher. I thought about how rare it was to feel so unhurried.

For travellers seeking a few days without crowds, without queues, without FOMO, Bacalar delivers – for now.

The appeal is simple: swim, eat, nap, repeat.

How to do it

BA, Virgin Atlantic and Tui offer direct flights from the UK to Cancun, which is around five hours by bus from Bacalar. Flights from the UK to Tulum with one stop en route are available on select dates with some airlines. Tulum is around three hours by bus to Bacalar.  

Casa Hormiga has B&B rooms from £92, plus taxes

For more information,

see mexicancaribbean.travel

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