The Charming Harbor Town Near Salem You Need to Visit This Fall ...Saudi Arabia

With spooky season upon us and all eyes once again turning to Salem, Massachusetts, for its annual haunted happenings all month of October, there's a quiet town just a few minutes away that's a welcome respite from all the crowds, but offers the same colonial charm. Marblehead, on the North Shore, just 45 minutes away from Boston, provides an under-the-rader look at all the history this area has to offer, plus loads of coastal cool. I should know—I grew up here and just moved back after a few decades away. In revisiting my old favorite haunts and exploring what's new, I've found a calm coastal community, but one packed with personality. Here's what you'll discover if you need a time out from all the tourists in Salem, or just want a sweet place to stroll and stay when it's its prettiest in fall.

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A Harbor Town Steeped in History

Photo by Walter Bibikow on Getty Images

It's something we lovingly joke about with our neighbor to the north, Beverly, Mass—which town was the birthplace of the American Navy. It's hard to really tell, since we pretty much all share the waters of the Salem Sound. But, since I'm from Marblehead, I'll say that we're said to have crewed and commanded the first American warship, the Hannah, which sailed in 1775 to harrass British warships (we often leave out that it actually sailed out of Beverly.) But that's not our only important connection to the American Revolution. Our mariners and fishermen played a key role, most notably General John Glover's regiment, which ferried George Washington and his troops across the Delaware River to go on to win the crucial Battle of Trenton. The fateful heroicism of the soldiers of the Revolution is immortalized in the lifesize painting, The Spirit of '76, on permanent display in our town hall, Abbott Hall. Apart from these key moments, Marblehead is full of colonial history on every corner, and wandering around, you'll find historic Federal-era manors to tour, like the Jeremiah Lee Mansion, the King Hooper Mansion and private homes dating back to the 1600s. It's fun to walk around and look at each of the placards on homes to see who once lived there.

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Where to Stay and Savor the Season

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If you're unable to find an affordable room in Salem's many hotels and AirBnBs, or just want a peaceful respite in a quaint, walkable coastal enclave, Marblehead has a few different options. The Harbor Light Inn, in Marblehead's Old Town, has 20 individually decorated guest rooms, all in the 1800s sea merchant-era style and evocative of treasures of that day, including chandelliers, brass and paintings, etchings and prints. The Inn is a true bed and breakfast, offering the most delicous continental-style breakfast with freshly made breads. I love spending a cold winter night in its tavern, sipping wine and nibbling bar bites. It's the perfect place to stay if you're looking to wander around the harborfront and boutiques on Washington Street. The Hotel Marblehead is a boutique hotel in a former Victorian home situated closer to Devereaux Beach, and offers 14 rooms with a clean, coastal modern look. There are also many AirBnBs that reflect the nautical style favored here. If you can find one on Marblehead's Neck—a little island jutting out from the main peninsula connected by a causeway—you'll experience the true feeling of being right on the Atlantic coast.

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Fall by the Water—Walks, Views and Lighthouse Vibes

Photo by Daniel Hanscom on Getty Images

Speaking of the Neck, you'll definitely want to plan to take a "Neck Run," as we say, to see our famous lighthouse and park, Chandler Hovey, named after the Marblehead resident who purchased it in 1948 and donated it to the town. The park is free for visitors and offers the best views of Marblehead Harbor, Salem Harbor and shorelines of Beverly and Manchester-By-The-Sea. It's also a stop on the Coastal Essex Scenic Byway, which takes you along this beautiful part of the Atlantic coastline through 14 towns and is a must-see. Once you're done taking in the ocean views, a beach stop is also a must. While the water is definitely chilling, Devereaux Beach and Riverhead across the street are perfect stops, especially at sunrise or sunset, and Riverhead's great if you've got a dog who wants to splash around. A little closer to downtown, Seaside Park offers a mile of woodsy walking trails where you'll find more beach views from a higher-up vantage point. And finally, the perfect Old Town loop starts from Crocker Park to the State Street Landing to Fort Sewall to Gas House Beach, past The Little Harbor Lobster Company for a fresh-caught lobster roll.

A Cozy Alternative to Crowded Salem

Marblehead is a coastal New England town in Essex County, Massachusetts, along the North Shore

Salem has many fun boutiques and shops that bring its witch history to life. They're definitely a must-do, whether you're there in October or anytime. However, for a taste of quintessential coastal Mass' mix of seafood restaurants, cafes, antiques, books, galleries, home decor and the very best in "coastal grandma core" fashion, you'll definitely want to make time to wander Marblehead's downtown and Old Town districts. For the best fresh baked, stuffed scallops and shrimp, fish and chips and other classic New England favorites, Three Cod Tavern will satisfy every craving. For a more upscale dining experience, Five Corners Kitchen has sophisticated bistro fare, the freshest oysters and excellent martinis. Every shop on Washington Street has something fun and cute, but my favorites are Bobbles & Lace's fun contemporary fashions, Maison de Mer, for new and vintage French-inspired home finds and Sistas consignment shop for the best second-hand Nancy Meyers-esque looks. Trove Antiques is just fun to explore, whether you're purchasing or not, and Tory'sJewelry has been around forever, and has the best sterling and gold jewelry and charms. Want something cooler than L.L. Bean's Boat and Tote? For more than 80 years, F.L. Woods has had its own brand of clothing, gear and bags inspired by Marblehead's sailing culture.

Quick Stops: Cozy Cafés, Shops & Galleries in Marblehead

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