Less than an hour’s drive south of Portland, Oregon, the Willamette Valley feels very much like Northern California’s Napa and Sonoma wine regions of years past: quiet, rural, friendly, laid back and bursting with jaw-dropping beauty.
Stretching over 150 miles long and 60 miles wide, this agricultural powerhouse covers 5,372 square miles and is the heart of Oregon’s wine country. It produces outstanding Pinot Noir, Chardonnay, Pinot Gris, Riesling and other revered varietals which draw wine lovers from around the Pacific Northwest and the world.
And it’s not just vineyards that abound here: there are u-pick lavender and fruit farms, hazelnut orchards and honey producers tucked here and there in these rolling hills which rise above the mighty Wiliamette River, which flows 200 miles from mountain tributaries south of Eugene north to its confluence with the Columbia River near Portland.
Exploring the Willamette’s Terroir
Like most most growing regions, the Willamette Valley’s unique climate and soil are what make its wines special. Located between the Cascade Mountains and the Coast Range, the valley benefits from cool marine breezes that extend the growing season. The fertile, volcanic red clay “Jory” soil is responsible for some of the region’s most celebrated Pinot Noirs. With more than 700 wineries, the valley is divided into multiple sub-regions, or American Viticultural Areas (AVAs), each with its own distinct flavor profile. The best of these include the Dundee, Yamhill-Carlton, Ribbon Ridge and Eola-Amity Hills AVAs.
Eminent Domain winery in Newberg, Oregon, is a stop on Wine de Roads bike tour. (Photo by Ben Davidson)On a recent visit to the Willamette Valley, I based myself in Newberg, the region’s northern gateway city. There are more than 100 wineries within a 10-mile radius of town and Newberg itself has seven downtown tasting rooms, all within walking distance of one another. It’s a veritable nirvana for oenophiles.
During my three-day exploration of the Willamette valley, I visited a handful of charming wineries just outside Newberg, including local luminaries Chehalem, Ambar, Bacus and Norris, reserving many of the region’s boutique and medium-sized wineries for my next visit.
Ambar Estate in Newburg, Oregon, has a biodynamic vineyard. (Photo by Ben Davidson)The wineries’ beautifully designed tasting rooms, each striking in their own way, offer enticing tasting flights of reds, whites and roses and, at a few, carefully matched food menus that draw on the bounty of fresh produce and other food products from the region.
Here are a few of my top choices for wineries to visit in the Willamette Valley:
The tasting room at Chehalem Winery explores the wines and distinct terroir of the winery’s four estate vineyards. (Photo by Ben Davidson)Chehalem Winery is set in a beautiful hilltop setting in Sherwood. The tasting room experience explores the wines and distinct terroir of Chehalem’s four estate vineyards through a guided five-wine tasting of current releases. The flight menu changes monthly. Afterward, be sure to grab a glass or bottle head to the wineries’ lawn area, settle into an Adirondack chair and take in the wide vineyard views while enjoying seasonally inspired bites from their kitchen (a hat and sunglasses are recommended.) Details: chehalemwines.com
The Japanese-inspired tasting room at Ambar Estate serves a wonderful wine-pairing lunch. (Photo by Ben Davidson)Ambar Estate is the Willamette Valley’s first regenerative organic certified vineyard. Its beautiful, Japanese-inspired tasting room overlooking the Dundee Hills offers a wonderful wine pairing lunch you don’t want to miss. Details: ambarestate.com
Bacus Vineyards: This small winery produces superb Pinots, Chardonnays, sparkling Brut and Rieslings and has a lengthy tasting menu. Details: bacusvineyards.com
Norris Wines: Located in the coveted Ribbon Ridge AVA, this family-owned winery focuses on Pinot Noirs and Rieslings, all made from grapes grown on their estate. Details: norriswines.com
Domaine Drouhin Oregon: Founded by the renowned Drouhin family from Burgundy, this Dundee Hills winery perfectly embodies its motto, “French Soul, Oregon Soil.” The estate is known for its elegant Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, and the tasting room offers a beautiful panoramic view of the vineyards. Details: domainedrouhin.com
Stoller Family Estate, the largest contiguous vineyard in Dundee Hills, Oregon, is a great introduction to Willamette Valley wine country. (Photo by Ben Davidson)Stoller Family Estate: The largest contiguous vineyard in the Dundee Hills, this winery is a great introduction to the valley, with a beautiful tasting room and stunning vineyard views. A five-course gastronomic tasting menu with seasonal ingredients sourced from the farm and local growers is also available. Details: stollerfamilyestate.com
Argyle Winery: If you’re a fan of bubbles, Argyle Winery in Dundee is the place to go. They’re a top producer of Oregon sparkling wine, but also make fantastic Pinot Noirs, Rieslings and Chardonnays. Details: argylewinery.com
Wine Country lodging and dining
The Allison Inn in Newburg, Oregon, is a great base of operations for exploring the Willamette Valley. (Photo by Ben Davidson)My base camp for my Willamette Valley exploration was Newberg’s luxurious Allison Inn, featuring a 15,000-square-foot spa and vineyard-view rooms. The Allison’s acclaimed restaurant, the Jory, offers delicious Pacific Northwest cuisine perfectly paired with locally-produced wines. The Jory’s farm-to-table cuisine is crafted by Oregon-born Jack Strong, also a member of the Confederated Tribes of Siletz Indians. The inn’s spa is considered one of the top spas in the Pacific Northwest and offers treatments and therapies incorporating the bounty the valley, including fruit, herbs, and flowers, mineral water for hydrotherapy, and, of course, pinot noir grapes. Details: theallison.com
Wild Oregon Chinook salmon is among the items on the menu at the Jory, Allison Inn’s acclaimed farm-to-table restaurant. (Photo by Ben Davidson)Other unique lodging options in the region include the quirky Vintages Trailer Resort (the-vintages.com) in Dayton and the historic Atticus Hotel (atticushotel.com) in McMinnville.
Beyond the vineyards
The Wayward Winds Lavender Farm offers visitors the chance to pick their own lavender while it is in season from late June through early August. (Photo by Ben Davidson)While wine is the star of the show, the Willamette Valley offers plenty of other activities to fill your time.
The charming towns of Dundee, Newberg, and McMinnville serve as the main hubs for a wine country trip. McMinnville’s bustling Third Street is a particular highlight, with its hip eateries, boutique shops, and tasting rooms. Newberg’s charming, walkable downtown features owner-operated restaurants, cafes, locally owned galleries, and shops. The city is also home to George Fox University, the arts-devoted Chehalem Cultural Center, and the Hoover-Minthorn House, the only presidential site in Oregon.
Foodie finds
The valley’s culinary scene is a delight. Stop by Red Hills Market in Dundee for gourmet sandwiches and wood-fired pizzas, perfect for a picnic. In Newberg, the Forage Cafe is set in a Craftsman bungalow and specializes in wood-fired oven and Italian dishes. Details: foragecafe.com.Tina’s Restaurant is a longtime favorite for wine country cuisine in the region. Details: tinasdundee.com
The Stoller Wine Bar offers a curated selection of wines, beer, wine-based cocktails and nonalcoholic beverages, with paired plates from a food truck parked in front. (Photo by Ben Davidson)The Stoller Wine Bar features award-winning wines from Stoller Family Estate, Chehalem Winery, History, Chemistry, and Stoller Swing wineries. Centrally located in the heart of downtown Newberg, the bar offers a curated selection of wines, beer, wine-based cocktails and nonalcoholic beverages, with paired plates from a food truck parked in front. Details: stollerwinegroup.com
Beer lovers shouldn’t miss the Wolves & People Farmhouse Brewery located in an old wooden barn outside Newberg. Using pure well water, wild yeasts (some propagated from its own fruit trees and beehives), local and heirloom grains, hops, and fruits, and house sour cultures, the brewery creates, ages, blends and bottles unique, small-batch beers exhibiting the wildness of Oregon terroir. Visiting here is a unique Oregon beer-tasting experience. Details: wolvesandpeople.com
Outdoor adventures
Visitors explore Wayward Winds Lavender Farm in Newburg, Oregon. Lavender blooms in the midsummer months. (Photo by Ben Davidson)The region’s natural beauty makes it ideal for outdoor activities. In addition to vineyard tours, there are river paddles, hikes, walking trails, golf, cycling, hot air balloon rides, scenic drives, or a simple picnic in one of Newberg’s many parks.
A guided bike tour and an on-your-own hike
Wine de Roads in Newburg, Oregon, offers a wine tour by bike through the Willamette Valley, with stops for tastings at three wineries. (Photo by Ben Davidson)
I joined a very fun “wine tour by bike” with Wine de Roads. The tour has access to four of the region’s premier wine AVAs as you ride riding at a leisurely pace with stops for tastings at three wineries. Details: winederoads.com
You can also go for a hike in a nearby state park, such as Silver Falls State Park, which features a breathtaking 7.2-mile loop trail that takes you past 10 waterfalls.
Jetboating
Captain Scott Heesacker, a retired Portland firefighters, operates NW Jetboat Charter from Rogers Landing in Newberg, Oregon. (Photo by Ben Davidson)We spent a fascinating morning cruising the Willamette River with amiable Captain Scott Heesacker, a retired Portland firefighter, on his fire-red private jet boat. On our four-hour cruise, we covered 45 miles of the river, taking in views of osprey in their nests, bald eagles, and other birds, and hunted for agates on a gravel bar in the middle of the river. The tour departs from Rogers Landing park in Newberg. Details: nwjetboatcharter.com
Planning your trip
Eminent Domain winery is a stop on the Wine de Roads bike tour. (Photo by Ben Davidson)There’s an abundance of information on the Willamette Valley online. Two useful websites for planning your visit are tastenewberg.com and willamettewines.com. For general Oregon travel information, visit traveloregon.com.
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