Magnolia ‘Elizabeth’
Well, it’s been Spring for a good minute here in Chapel Hill. I’m hard-pressed to recall a gentler, more colorful rousing out of the grey-brown repose of winter. A couple of light snowfalls to keep us humble, some bracing afternoons of unabashed gloom, the moments where a recollection of Poe crept in before the traffic light changed and the car behind you sat on their horn and you snapped back into this century and the looming to-do list post-it noted to the inside of your eyelids. So grateful for this time of year. All the reasons.
Narcissus ‘Aspasia’
I’ve spun a bit on the omnipresent daffodil, true backbone of the late winter perennial garden. I appreciate your indulgence on that. They are still out there as I write this, siren whispers and faerie choruses calling me back into their ornamental ground. Yeah, love me some jonquils.
Narcissus ‘Conspicuus’
Anyway, this month I’d like y’all to stroll with me a bit around downtown Chapel Hill. The trees are waking and I thought it might be nice for us to pause and give them a listen. To that end, we’ll be laying out a map of sorts over the next little while–fits and starts if you will–of the street trees in town, those closest to campus to start; we’ll see where we end up. I’m particularly fond of trees, I’ve come to make a living working with and for them here at UNC. Thought it might be interesting to take a closer look at some of them, maybe instill (if not too strong a verb) a bit of interest in some members of the urban landscape that are all too often passed by without mention or notice.
P.S. Margot wants me to remind you that things change quickly in a Southern spring and the photos accompanying the prose are likely not accurate representations of how the trees are looking right now.
(all images courtesy of Geoffrey Neal)
Meet Downtown Chapel Hill’s Street Trees, Part 1
East Franklin Street, looking west
On the north side of the 100 block of East Franklin Street, there are 14 trees planted in what I’m sure is generously referred to as “soil” in some quarters, we’ll go with “ground” right now. Starting at the intersection of Columbia and Franklin, we’ll walk east along this side of the street that’s home to the Varsity and Sutton’s and see what we see.
I have in my notes the ordering of these trees along with the businesses that sit next to them. I want to state clearly and from the outset, in locating these trees according to their neighboring retail structure, I am in no way endorsing that enterprise. Not its business model, product offering, services, clientele, architecture, choice of exterior paint color…you get the idea. These are points of reference only; many have come and gone in the lifetimes of the eldest trees and many more will be gone long before the younger trees are even approaching adulthood. But I digress.
Trees 1 & 13: Live oak
I was pleased to see some oaks in the lineup after watching more than a few willow oaks get taken out on Cameron Avenue and West Franklin Street over the past five years. Always difficult to see longtime friends slip under the horizon, regardless of the reason. The first and 13th trees are live oaks (Quercus virginiana). Not looking their best, but a bit of careful pruning and perhaps a kind word or two and these evergreens will come into their own. There are some excellent examples of live oaks around Chapel Hill. I’m thinking of the specimen in front of Squid’s, for example, planted by my pal Andy some decades back. Or the courtyard oak between Davie Hall and Howell Hall on campus. That one’s a real stunner. I’ll have something to say about that one later on, promise. Right now, we’re on Franklin in front of Raising Cane’s and looking down to the other end of the block to one of the two trees in front of the Post Office and the Peace & Justice Plaza.
By the time you’re reading this, the canopy of this live oak (Quercus virginiana) will be fuller and greener.
Don’t let the canopy distract you from the patterns and markings of live oak (Quercus virginiana) bark.
Tree 2: Elm
Back up near Columbia and Franklin, we have our first elm tree of four along this block. The one in front of Zayka Indian Grill & Bar is likely an American elm (Ulmus americana), though it could be a slippery elm (Ulmus rubra). It’s difficult to tell these apart with just a few fruits to go on. I’m sure there’s someone out there who knows for certain exactly which species this is. I’m rooting for slippery, as the species is smaller overall. There’s not a lot of room here, and a mature American elm is a wide and wonderful fountain of a tree. The specimen in Coker Arboretum is easily 70’ tall with a similar canopy spread.
Elm canopy. Which species, American (Ulmus americana) or slippery (Ulmus rubra)? Too early in the season to say for sure.
A close-up look at the elm’s bark.
The elm’s fruit.
Trees 3, 5 & 12: Bald cypress
The third tree on our little stroll is a fan favorite. Swamp denizen and street tree, tolerant of so much, yet so forgiving. Bald cypresses (Taxodium distichum) are some of the longest-lived trees in the world, reaching over 2,000 years where happy. It’s something to consider that the conditions under all that pavement are similar enough to a blackwater swamp to convince our friend to grow and thrive. Well, at least grow. There are three cypresses on this block. The first in front of Sup Dogs, the next facing Prologue Used Books and the third down by Proximo Restaurant. I doubt these trees will be allowed to fully express their treeness (think about a trunk five or six feet thick), unless the town decides to eliminate a drive lane completely on this side of the road. Maybe lose some paved walk as well. A boy can dream.
The currently bare canopy of one of Franklin Street’s bald cypress (axodium distichum).
Check out the lovely color of the bald cypress’ bark.
Tree 4: Japanese zelkova
I’m giving myself the gift of a little kick in the backside for not having recognized this tree before. Perhaps I was distracted by Epilogue’s excellent coffee calling me mere feet from this trunk. Japanese zelkova (Zelkova serrata) is a fairly common, though often overused and not really that great a street tree. It’s tough and well-mannered, for the most part. The branching habit is a bit tight, the unions where twig meets branch are more acute than some, leading to failures (that means limbs can fall off, as I’m sure you have seen with Bradford pears…). The bark resembles the neighboring Chinese elms and the leaves look a bit cherryish with their many jagged little teeth. Not a bad tree, I suppose, feeling better now that I know who it is.
The leafy canopy of the Japanese zelkova (Zelkova serrata).
Check out the zelkova’s bark patterning.
Tree 6: Mystery oak #1
Next up is the oak that sits in front of Blue Horn Lounge and Varsity Theater. On my discovery stroll the other day, this tree was in flower, tresses of dangly catkins dancing their squiggly chartreuse squiggles in an ecstatic celebration of pollen-making joy, delivering all that genetic goodness in silent, windborne waves into unsuspecting nasal passages all up and down the boulevard. I’m not as schooled in the oaks as I would like to be, especially when they have yet to leaf out. There are 50 species of oak native to eastern North America. They have similarities and they have differences. I’m making a note right now to revisit this tree (and a few others to be sure) to determine its identity. For now, it’s a lovely oak being oaky and that’s okay.
The Blue Horn Lounge oak’s mighty trunk.
It’s easy to blame the pines, but what’s making you sneeze is more likely the oak pollen that gets shaken from catkins like these.
Tree 7: Chinese pistache
The tree in front of Underground Printing is a Chinese pistache (Pistacia chinensis). There is another one of these around the corner next to the bus stop by Momo’s Master Restaurant on North Columbia. A curious tree. The clusters of flowers are tight pyramidal bundles on stout stems, male and female flowers on separate plants, so another visit is warranted to see on which side of the gender fence these trees sit. Like the bald cypress, these are tough-as-ticks trees that lend themselves well to an urban setting. They have excellent fall color, in fact, an added draw as the oaks and elms do not offer much in that category. (It’s kind of an inside joke with gardeners that brown is a color, too. It is, and yet…) Here are some pictures of the Columbia Street tree as it’s nicer looking.
The pistacia canopy full of fruits.
The pistacia bark has a lovely color.
Here’s what the fruits look like up close.
Trees 8, 9 & 11: Chinese elm
The first in this trio of Chinese elms (Ulmus parvifolia), in front of VooDoo Wing Company, has the added distinction of a weeping habit. It may very well be a named cultivar, decidedly different canopy compared to its sister trees. The Chinese elm is another reliable street tree that’s well-suited to life in a sidewalk. Lots of finely serrated smallish leaves and lacy branching. It’ll be the one you notice at eye level walking by as the bark is distinctive—really fun and a delicate texture. Trees 9 and 11 (by Cloud 9 and Tailgate by Shrunken Head, respectively) are the non-weeping versions.
Note the weeping habit of this Chinese elm in front of VooDoo Wing Company.
It’s hard to beat the mottled puzzle pieces of Chinese elm bark.
Despite being surrounded by bricks, concrete and whatever other infrastructure is under the surface, the Chinese elm makes it work.
Tree 10: Mystery oak #2
Tree 10 sits out in front of Sutton’s Drug Store and Amber Alley. It’s an oak. Yep, it’s definitely an oak. Possibly Northern red (Quercus rubra), possibly pin oak (Quercus palustris). The tree was not whispering loud enough for me to hear when I was hanging out with it. I’ll have to go back and have another look. Have a guess? Awesome, I’m sure there’s a comment box at the bottom of this page somewhere. I love learning new things. Here are a couple of pictures that may be of assistance. You may be wondering why this oak’s still got some leaves on it. This is one of Margot’s favorite things, so I’ll let her explain: “Some oaks keep their leaves through the winter in a process called marcescence. Unlike most trees that drop leaves as the temperatures cool in the fall, marcescent species don’t get the signal to let go until the temperatures warm in the spring and new leaves itch to get out. Fun fact: This is also why the American beeches (Fagus grandifolia) are still showing off those pretty copper and tan leaves even as the dogwoods and redbuds are blooming. While the beeches hold almost all their leaves till spring, though, it’s not uncommon to see oaks with just a few branches boasting leaves while the rest are bare. Why does this happen? There are lots of theories, but nobody’s found a definitive answer yet.”
Some oaks, like this one at Amber Alley, keep some or all of their leaves till springtime.
The tightly packed ridges of the Amber Alley oak.
Tree 14: Mystery oak #3
The last tree on the block is another question mark. It’s an oak, that much is certain. This one was just leafing out on my walk through. Southern red (Quercus falcata) is a legit guess. But it might be somebody else. Once those leaves fully emerge, all will become clear to me and I can update all you faithful readers and a collective exhale will be gratefully enjoyed. We’ll join hands and intone: “Of course it is.”
The Post Office mystery oak canopy before the leaf-out.
A twig from the Post Office mystery oak
Hey y’all, thanks for taking a walk with me. There will be some more like this as we continue our look at street trees. Perhaps a map or a guide? More fun facts? I’m ready. (This may be a side effect of spring and excellent coffee. Will it pass? Hard to say.) More soon.
If you haven’t gotten your fill of tree ID, join us on May 4 from 1-3 for a free walk through the woodlands of Bluestem Conservation Cemetery in Cedar Grove to see what species we can spot. Registration is required and space is limited. Sign up at the Triangle Land Conservancy events page.
Geoffrey Neal is the director of the Cullowhee Native Plant Conference. You can see more of his photography at @soapyair and @gffry. Margot Lester is a certified interpretive naturalist and a writer and editor at The Word Factory.
About the name: A refugium (ri-fyü-jē-em) is a safe space, a place to shelter, and – more formally – an area in which a population of organisms can survive through a period of unfavorable conditions or crisis. We intend this column to inspire you to seek inspiration and refuge in nature, particularly at the Arboretum!
Refugium: Meet Downtown Chapel Hill’s Street Trees, Part 1 Chapelboro.com.
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