Hair typing charts promise to simplify things, but then hand you a code that may not match your tresses. 3B hair is one of the most common labels people land on and one of the easiest to misread. If you treat 3B curls like loose waves, they can frizz. Load them up like tight coils, and they can fall flat.
The numbering system most people use comes from celebrity stylist Andre Walker, who developed it to classify his clients’ hair. NaturallyCurly later refined it into nine texture types with input from its readers.
The chart has its critics. Curl specialist Shakera Kemp has said that strand size matters more than where you land on the scale and suggested skipping the chart altogether. Still, a rough sense of your category can keep you from buying products that were never going to work for you.
What sets 3B curls apart starts beneath the scalp, long before a strand reaches daylight. That structure explains why these ringlets tend to run dry and why a few everyday habits, including some that feel gentle, do more harm than people expect. Most of the fixes cost nothing.
Expect some experimentation along the way. Finding the right routine for curly hair often takes trial and error, so a product that disappoints isn’t a sign you’re doing something wrong, according to the American Academy of Dermatology (AAD).
Here’s how to tell whether you have 3B hair, what’s behind its thirst for moisture and the routine dermatologists recommend for keeping it defined and healthy.
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What Is 3B Hair?
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Type 3 covers curly hair, and 3B sits squarely in the middle of the category. In NaturallyCurly’s version of the chart, 3B curls are springy, well-defined spirals with plenty of body, each roughly the circumference of a Sharpie marker.
How To Tell 3B Curls From 3A and 3C
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Here’s how the three curly types compare, using NaturallyCurly’s benchmarks:
3A: Loopy S-shaped curls about the width of sidewalk chalk 3B: Springy spirals about the width of a Sharpie 3C: Tight corkscrews about the width of a pencil or drinking straw that bounce back when pulledIf yours fall somewhere between two categories, shop for the pattern that covers most of your head.
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Why 3B Hair Runs Dry
In a 2005 study published in the British Journal of Dermatology, researchers dissected scalp follicles and found that curly hair grows from curved follicles with a bulb bent like a golf club, while straight hair grows from straight ones.
They concluded that curliness is programmed in the bulb itself. Later research has added nuance, but follicle shape remains the leading explanation for why hair grows curly or straight, ScienceAlert reports.
That spiral comes with a trade-off. Sebum, the scalp’s natural oil, travels down the hair shaft to protect it and add shine. Tightly curled hair doesn’t get coated as thoroughly as straight hair does, which leaves it drier, board-certified dermatologist Dr. Sharleen St. Surin-Lord has said.
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Detangle Wet, Not Dry
Curly hair knots easily, and the American Academy of Dermatology’s advice for working out tangles comes down to one rule: Do it wet. Soak your hair, apply a leave-in conditioner and work through knots with your fingers, a wide-tooth comb or a brush made for curly hair, the AAD advises.
Timing helps, too. For thick, curly hair, the best moment to comb is in the shower before you rinse out your conditioner. Start at the ends and work your way up toward the roots to keep breakage to a minimum, according to the AAD.
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A Dermatologist-Backed Routine for 3B Hair
1. Wash only when you need to
Washing curly hair too often can leave it dry, frizzy and hard to manage, according to the AAD. Thick, curly hair doesn’t need a daily or even weekly wash, though the organization recommends washing at least every two to three weeks for scalp health. Choose a moisturizing shampoo formulated for curly hair, and if your hair is long or thick, wash it in sections to cut down on tangling.
2. Condition from roots to ends
People with fine or straight hair can get away with conditioning just the ends. Dry or curly hair needs conditioner along its entire length, per the AAD. Deep conditioning is part of the routine pediatric dermatologist Dr. Brandi Kenner-Bell recommended for curly and coily hair. She also points out that the real challenge with curls is usually holding on to length rather than growing it, Dermatology Times reported.
3. Layer moisture with the LCO method
This popular stylist technique stacks products on soaking-wet hair: a liquid (a water-based leave-in), then a cream (a lightweight curl cream), then an oil (just a few drops to seal). If you want more hold, finish with a gel. It hasn’t been tested in clinical studies, so adjust the order or drop a step based on how your curls respond.
4. Blot instead of rubbing
Rubbing your hair with a towel to soak up water can rough up the cuticle and lead to more frizz. Gently squeeze or scrunch out water with a microfiber towel or an old cotton T-shirt, then air-dry or diffuse on low. Heat and the sun’s UV rays can both dry out curly hair, so a wide-brimmed hat is worth wearing on long days outside, the AAD notes.
5. Protect your curls overnight
Many people with textured hair wear silk bonnets to bed to help their hair stay hydrated, dermatologist Dr. Candrice Heath told Dermatology Times. Your pillowcase matters, too. Silk or satin lets curls glide instead. For longer hair, gather it loosely on top of your head with a silk scrunchie (the “pineapple” method) to keep ringlets from getting crushed.
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Sources:
Thibaut, S., et al. “Human hair shape is programmed from the bulb.” British Journal of Dermatology, 2005 American Academy of Dermatology, “6 Curly Hair Care Tips From Dermatologists” and “Tips for Healthy Hair“ NaturallyCurly, “Find Your Texture Type“Hence then, the article about what does 3b hair mean a guide to the curl pattern was published today ( ) and is available on Parade ( Saudi Arabia ) The editorial team at PressBee has edited and verified it, and it may have been modified, fully republished, or quoted. You can read and follow the updates of this news or article from its original source.
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