In His East London Home, This Debut Cookbook Writer Served Cake, Caviar Chips, and Chaos ...Middle East

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What does it mean to entertain? To create a space for curious conversations and rumbling stomachs? Hosting, for some, is like a fine art. For others, algebraic. Writer and cook Jago Rackham’s debut book, To Entertain, is subtitled: “Instructions for a Dinner Party,” but it is more than a simple etiquette guide or hosting how-to. Part-memoir, part-cookbook, the British cook and writer celebrates the delicious alchemy of gathering friends and answering their appetites.

Rackham’s philosophy resists fussiness and celebrates good food, whatever the funds or friends at the table. Advice flows easily and warmly, and recipes revel in the simple but sumptuous: there’s an oregano and beef sauce ribboned through a tagliatelle that is “not Italian…not really from anywhere, save [his] kitchen in London,” chicken and rice for “when you’re sick as a dog,” and a “sort of” ratatouille that bastardizes some Delia Smith. There’s a proper custard, and a very British sticky toffee pudding and trifle. Pointers are offered for cooking for new friends, lovers, and family—as well as dealing with unexpected guests, lateness, getting people to leave, speeches, and the right glassware.

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