When it went on sale on Wednesday, the Limited Edition Red Diamond Strawberry and Creme Sandwich instantly became the retailer’s best selling sandwich and sold out everywhere.
Yes, this is a sweet sandwich, technically a dessert sandwich made from soft, slightly sweet and light as air white bread, filled with gently whipped cream cheese and layered with Red Diamond strawberries, grown specially for M&S for peak sweetness.
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The M&S version certainly looks very pretty, with the sliced strawberry facing out of the fluffy filling, or ‘creme’, which is made from a combination of full fat soft cheese and sweetened creme fraiche.
I think one of the reasons it tastes so good is because the concept plays a trick on your brain. Even though you know what you’re about to eat, on some level your grey matter is expecting a savoury sandwich, because of how it reads the presentation and packaging. When, instead, your senses of smell and taste meet a juicy, sweet reward, your pleasure receptors go into overdrive.
The other three non-negotiables, according to Sano, are that the whipped cream shouldn’t be too sweet, the bread must be sweetened, and there should be a decent amount of fruit. On these counts, she says, M&S does well. “As a Japanese person who often eats fruit sandwiches in Japan, I loved it and finished it all without wanting to share with my children!”
Even though this is an undeniably sweet sandwich, don’t mistake it for cake. The brioche-like bread, while not savoury, contains far less sugar than cake sponge and will tear like bread rather than having the crumbly crumb quality we love in a good sponge.
However the overall fat and sugar content aren’t bad, with less than half the saturated fat found in an M&S Strawberry Victoria Sponge (5.2g compared to 11.5g) and far less sugar than its cakey cousin (7.1g to 26.5g).
If you miss out, try one of the Japanese bakeries that were selling fruit sandos long before M&S got in on the act. In Japan, they’ve been available in specialty cafés since the 1920s, and are now everywhere from convenience stores to vending machines. In the UK, Katsute 100 in Islington has a matcha strawberry shortcake sando, while at Happy Sky in west London you can buy authentic Japanese milk bread to create your own at home.
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