The famous red bible for gastronomes still makes and breaks cooking careers, despite increasing competition from rival food lists and the rise of Instagram influencers with their younger, online followers.
At stake are not only the reputations of chefs and hundreds of businesses that depend on the guide for visibility but also France's image as a fine food destination.
What began as a guide for people wealthy enough to own a car in France 125 years ago is now a global business that sends its under-cover tasters to restaurants around the world, producing editions for around 50 destinations.
Japan is second, followed by Spain, Italy, and the United States.
After rewarding roadside food stalls in Thailand and Singapore, the guide granted a star to a taco stand in Mexico City last year, causing a local sensation but baffling regular eaters at the simple four-dish outlet.
To soften the disappointment for French chefs who lost stars, the guide announced its downgrades for 22 restaurants last week.
“We weren’t expecting it,“ he told AFP after being informed he was being demoted to two stars. “We’ll cope, and perhaps we’ll be less elitist and a little bit more accessible.”
Downgrades can lead to ruin and have been linked to tragedy in the past, including suicide.
Veyrat sued the guide after inspectors stripped him of a star in 2019.
The 600 chefs who will feature in the 2025 guide have been invited to a ceremony in the eastern French city of Metz ahead of the unveiling of the new French guide on Monday at 1600 GMT.
“As always, it’s going to be a full house because the immense majority of them will be there,“ Poullennec said.
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