Eastern Europe’s traditional ingredients get star treatment in the new cookbook ‘Kapusta’ ...Middle East

By JULIA RUBIN

Cabbage would seem to check a lot of boxes for what’s prized these days in Western food circles. It’s nutritious and inexpensive. Seasonal. Colorful. Climate-hardy. Fermentable.

So why does it still struggle for respect?

“It’s about how you cook it. People tend to overcook it, not letting it express all its potential,” says Alissa Timoshkina, whose new cookbook, “Kapusta: Vegetable-Forward Recipes from Eastern Europe,” celebrates cabbage as one of the backbones of the region’s cooking. (“Kapusta” means cabbage in many Slavic languages.)

The other mainstays, she says, are beetroot, potatoes, carrots and mushrooms; each gets a chapter, along with dumplings and “ pickles and ferments.”

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