The resulting cookies are what I call “scrappies.” They’re irregularly shaped, containing the outlines of gingerbread arms and snowman hats. I don’t ball them up and roll them out again; I just cut out the shapes I want (or have the kids do that step), and put everything on a baking tray. The nice cookies go on one tray, to be carefully decorated and lovingly cared for until they can be served or gifted; and the scrappies go on the other side, to be smeared with icing and devoured willy-nilly.
Credit: Beth SkwareckiSecond, there’s the fact that re-rolling doesn’t make for very good cookies. As Allie Chanthorn Reinmann, our food editor, told me, “re-rolling cookie dough more than once can overwork the mixture, resulting in stronger gluten development. A stronger gluten network leads to tougher cookies, and not as much rise." From a taste and texture standpoint, you’re better off baking the scraps as-is.
No worries when you have scrappies. The “good” cookies and the scrappies come out of the oven at the same time. You can break a scrappie to test its doneness. You can sample one to evaluate its flavor and crunch. And, best of all, you have a free supply of snacking material and a test canvas for decorations. The two-year-old wants to squeeze icing all over something? She can squeeze it onto a scrappie. I’ll be doing the same, applying a squiggle of the surplus onto a cookie that looks like a squiggle itself.
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