Passover, the eight-day Jewish festival of freedom, begins this year at sundown on April 22, and the ceremonial Seder meal includes, to the merriment of many, the drinking of four glasses of wine. The observant will choose kosher wines, and, baby, have we come a long, long way. Not so long ago, the words “kosher wine” brought to mind that syrupy sweet, almost cough medicine-like concoction served as an accompaniment to prayers. Not anymore. Forty years ago, observant Jewish baby boomers, hipper and more sophisticated than their parents, demanded the same selection and quality found in the non-kosher world, and winemakers took notice. “Kosher wines have exploded onto the market,” noted cookbo
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