For Dsquared2’s Dean and Dan Caten, the idea of an Italian summer was the basis of their resort 2027 collection. But that alone would be too basic, so the duo reinterpreted it through their Canadian perspective, leaning into a duality expressed through a constant juxtaposition between high and low cultural references—and a nod to the duo’s typically irreverent approach. Thus, the rigor of ’80s tailoring now embraced a cowboy attitude, while traditional silhouettes became playful and sensual. Hybridization, a signature trait of the brand, was a motif across both the men’s and women’s offerings.
The men’s collection opened with party-like, glamorous items—think tuxedos and silk pajamas—as well as with denim pieces covered in transparent sequins for a hit of sparkle. That was followed by a tailored selection of louche gray and beige suits with blazers that reinterpreted, with subtle irony, the stereotype of Italian male elegance. The hybrid theme was all in the details: double sleeves on shirts that appeared to have another piece poshly tied at the shoulders, or trenches with denim inserts, or sporty track jacket components, all strategically mashed up. A brightly colored section imparted a sporty vibe, thanks to references to a vintage aesthetic, a savvy mix of American prep and Paninari—a youthful 1980s subculture—codes.
Denim has always been central to Dsquared2, and this was further confirmed this season; one highlight of note was the women’s jeans ensembles featuring strategic rips that revealed bouclé linings. Another strong concept was the thin knitwear pieces, some with a bon ton attitude and others with a preppy spirit, conveyed through bold colored stripes that recalled collegiate quads. Hybridization continued on here as well: skirts made of MA-1 bomber jacket components, tight black blazers with added denim jacket cuff details for a double-fastening option. Lace-trimmed silk skirts with sleeveless tops emblazoned with ironic Italian phrases (like Il sole bacia i belli) added a flirty, cheeky flair.
The collection was completed with a series of irreverent accessories, including the newly-launched Roxy Bag, decorated with multiple belts, sandals with Cosmo heels inspired by the stems of cocktail glasses, and the baseball-cap-fastening-inspired mules. All in all, sexy, fun, and very Dsquared2.
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