My first time eating sushi in town, like many Chicagoans, was at Kamehachi in Old Town. When it first opened in 1967, sushi was virtually unheard of in Chicago. Now, you can get it at Jewel.
When I moved to Chicago in 2004, I lived in Lakeview. And one of the first restaurants I stopped by to dine was a, by then, legendary restaurant at Aldine and Halsted—Yoshi’s Cafe, a Japanese-French restaurant.
It was there I had one of my earliest gourmet burgers, the patty made of Wagyu beef and topped with wasabi blue cheese. The burger melted in the mouth.
Funny that two of my earliest memories upon relocating to Chicago were at Japanese restaurants. And now, many years later, the families of those two legendary restaurants have sprouted an offspring, called Sho. And it’s an example of how a new generation of chefs are reinterpreting the food their parents made.
Located in the city’s Old Town neighborhood at 1533 N. Wells St., Sho describes itself as modern omakase.
Omakase is a style of Japanese dining, often at sushi restaurants, where you leave all decision-making to the chef. It’s essentially a set menu—at Sho, it’s 10-plus courses, weaving through hot and cold dishes, sashimi and hand rolls, all through the prism of Japanese ingredients and technique, but goes beyond the border of Japan.
Sho offers the 10-plus courses for $155 and a sake pairing for $95.
The executive chef is Mari Katsumura, daughter of Yoshi’s Cafe founder, the late Yoshi Katsumura. Know that within the Japanese omakase genre, chefs are almost entirely male. Which makes Mari Katsumura not only one of the few women cooking Japanese omakase, but one of the few in the genre with a Michelin star (she earned one as executive chef at the now-closed Yugen).
You’ll find Katsumura and her business partner Adam Sindler (a fourth-generation owner of Kamehachi) at work behind the chef’s counter each night.
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