Wait, So Are Gel Manicures Unsafe? Here’s the Deal ...Saudi Arabia

Last month, the European Union banned a popular gel manicure ingredient, trimethylbenzoyl diphenylphosphine oxide (TPO), labeling it as carcinogenic, mutagenic or toxic to reproduction. If you get gel manicures regularly, this news is likely alarming. Are you increasing your cancer risk every time you step into the nail salon?Perhaps the news has made you think about the health risks of your beauty routine as a whole. Does wearing perfume increase cancer risk? Wearing makeup? Dying your hair? All of these questions are complicated and require extensive further scientific research. But they are worth investigating. After all, it’s the habits we do regularly that impact health the most.With that in mind, we asked a top dermatologist to give us the cold, hard truth: Are gel manicures safe? How much does getting them regularly increase cancer risk? Keep reading to find out.

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As previously mentioned, the European Union banned a very specific ingredient used in gel nail polish: trimethylbenzoyl diphenylphosphine oxide (TPO). This ingredient is used to harden the polish when it’s exposed to UV light.

How dangerous is it? “The EU banned the gel manicure ingredient TPO not specifically because it is proven to be unsafe for human usage, but as a precaution because of high-dose exposure in animals,” explains Dr. Ava Shamban, MD, a dermatologist at Ava MD and the founder of Althaea Skin.

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Dr. Shamban explains that TPO is considered a Category 1B CMR (carcinogen, mutagen, reprotoxic) substance. The way the EU law works is that this means that any products that contain it are automatically banned. Dr. Shamban emphasizes that this is happening despite the fact that scientists have not yet evidenced any data related to risk factors for humans.“TPO is still legal in the US, but this raises a red flag that will certainly also raise interest for the Food and Drug Administration, and presumably, there will be a deeper dive with studies looking for more definitive data. It has been reported that the UK is considering a similar ban, but that is not in effect at this time,” Dr. Shamban says.

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In addition to TPO being labeled carcinogenic, there is another potential risk when getting gel manicures: the UV nail dryers. They use the same type of light as tanning beds, which have been directly linked to increasing skin cancer risk. Because of this, Dr. Shamban says she doesn’t recommend using UV nail drying lamps.

“We are well aware of the cellular damage that all types of UV rays and blue light have on our skin. The type of lights used in the drying and [hardening] process for gel manicures are either ultraviolet light or LED light. Both emit a specific wavelength and ultraviolet energy. This type of UVA is like being exposed to the rays from the sun to the same damage potential and precautions should apply,” she explains.

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So far, scientific studies on UV nail dryers and cancer risk have shown that the cancer risk is minimal because the dose of UV emission the lamps use is low. A 2020 study on this topic reached the same conclusion.

The last health risk Dr. Shamban wants people to be aware of when it comes to gel manicures comes from other ingredients besides TPO. “Gel manicures do have other issues that can arise, including contact dermatitis [an inflammatory skin condition] from ingredients like acrylates. There is also the potential for nail weakening, thinning, peeling and slower growth as well as damage to the nail plate,” she says. These side effects do not increase the risk of cancer, but they are important to be aware of.

Less Risky Manicure Alternatives

If learning this news about gel manicures is having you rethink continuing to get them regularly, you may wonder what the safer alternatives are. “While the risk [of cancer from gel manicures] is presumably minimal, there are so many options and alternatives in the market today, so there is no reason for anyone to continue to put their 10 digits in harm's way,” Dr. Shamban says.

If you do plan to continue getting gel manicures but are worried about the UV exposure from the nail dryers, she recommends wearing UPF gloves with the fingertips cut out or applying sunscreen to your hands while getting a gel manicure as a best practice to mitigate exposure.

“While the exposure may be 'minimal,' even if it is just a few minutes per session every two or three weeks of unprotected exposure is not  'good exposure'. So it is important to use the same tools we have for sun protection to avoid the premature signs of aging, oxidative stress and precursors to cancer,” Dr. Shamban says.

She also recommends finding safer alternatives to gel polish. “Regular polish can air dry and with newer formulation, there are long-lasting options as well as powder dip, more natural vegan options and a plethora of pretty options in stick-ons, nail strips and other similar extenders,” she says, though she adds that powder dip has its own set of issues, including irritation and damage to the nail bed.

Nail and cuticle care is also important for health, Dr. Shamban says. “Healthy, well-maintained nails and cuticles are important. Nails that are left unattended can harbor bacteria that lead to infections. Healthy, strong keratin, which the nails are composed of, also acts as a protective barrier to prevent injury and cuts as well as entry of pathogens into the skin,” she says.

When it comes to manicures, she says they’re a “proceed with caution” habit. “Because of the potential contamination in the condition of a salon, cleanliness of tools as well as the products and the processes, manicures can cause dryness, brittle nails, damage from aggressive cuticle manipulation as well as transferring fungus, bacteria, infection and skin irritation,” she explains.

Using press-on nails or doing your own manicure with clean tools, regular polish and letting them dry naturally is likely the safest way to go.

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Sources:

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