Deodorant and antiperspirants have had their fair share of bad press, with rumours abounding that they cause cancer and Alzheimer’s disease, block toxins from escaping our bodies, and contain harmful ingredients that are absorbed through our skin.
Most recently, anti-perspirant-deodorant brand Mitchum came under scrutiny when hundreds of customers complained on social media of side-effects like agonising weeping spots, redness and irritation after using their product.
Mitchum quickly apologised, stating that a change in the manufacturing process had affected 100ml batches sold in the UK, Ireland, and South Africa, and the products have since been removed from shelves.
Armpits are particularly sensitive because the outer layer of skin is thinner than on other parts of the body. Rani Ghosh, a toxicologist who has worked within the cosmetics and medical devices industry for 10 years, tells The i Paper: “The barrier is less robust and more prone to irritation, especially because the area is warm, humid and often freshly shaved.”
“A change in the manufacturing process of one raw material subtly altered how the product interacted with the skin,” Gosh adds. “Even when a formulation looks the same on paper, these kinds of changes can shift the chemical profile.”
Amid heightened concerns and lots of misinformation, let’s explore what the research really says about deodorant.
“Both deodorants and antiperspirants help to keep our underarms fresh,” says Cosmetic, Toiletry, and Perfumery Association’s director of science, Caroline Rainsford. “But they work in different ways.”
Deodorants are designed to soak up sweat, kill bacteria, and mask body odour, many of them formulated with alcohol to target body odour-causing bacteria, and baking soda to create a PH environment too high for odour-causing bacteria to flourish.
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Antiperspirants, whose active ingredient is typically aluminium, work by temporarily plugging up the perspiration-producing eccrine and apocrine glands, the latter of which are concentrated in the hairy parts of the body.
“Antiperspirants help prevent perspiration by dissolving in sweat and creating a thin coating of gel that covers the sweat glands,” Rainsford says. “This coating reduces the amount of sweat released onto the surface of the skin and therefore reduces the risk of odour.”
Most antiperspirants are also deodorants, but deodorants aren’t antiperspirants.
Your body needs sweat
Sweating is your body’s way of regulating your temperature. It’s mostly made up of water, but also includes small amounts of sodium, chloride, and other substances, which are secreted when you’re nervous (cortical sweating), eating spicy food (medullary sweating), or are overheated (hypothalamic sweating).
Surprisingly, sweat itself doesn’t stink, but “contains proteins and fatty acids which bacteria on the skin ‘feed’ on,” explains Rainsford. “It’s the bacterial by-products that produce the bad odour.”
“Eccrine glands across the body produce watery sweat that cools us by evaporation. In the armpits, apocrine glands add a thicker secretion that is broken down by skin bacteria into compounds that smell,” Gosh says. “The sweat itself is harmless, but the odour can be socially unwanted, which is why many people choose deodorants and antiperspirants.”
But sweating from the armpits is just one part of a much bigger system, as the body has millions of sweat glands across the skin. “Blocking sweat in the underarms does not stop the body cooling itself, because you continue to sweat freely from everywhere else,” Ghosh adds.
A lingering concern passed down from older generations and more recently suggested by natural deodorant marketing, is that antiperspirants block harmful “toxins” from escaping your body.
However, while toxins – waste products naturally produced in the body – are excreted through sweat, studies show the main way the body eliminates them is via the kidneys and gastrointestinal tract. “Sweat cools you down, it does not remove toxins,” says Ghosh.
As for worries about aluminium compounds in anti-perspirants leading to higher risk of Alzheimer’s disease, the study the rumour originated from isn’t very reliable.
“The claim stems from early animal experiments where very high doses of aluminium were injected directly into the brains of rabbits,” Ghosh expains. “That kind of exposure is completely different from applying an antiperspirant to the skin.”
Large human studies and systematic reviews have found no reliable evidence that cosmetic use of aluminium increases the risk of Alzheimer’s. Reputable organisations such as the Alzheimer’s Society also agree there is no proven link.
Breast cancer risk has also been cause for concern as antiperspirants with aluminium absorbed by the skin may have oestrogen-like (the hormone that can promote the growth of breast cancer cells) effects. But, no studies to date have confirmed any substantial links to increased breast cancer risks.
“Cancer Research UK and the US National Cancer Institute have both stated clearly that there is no scientific evidence that antiperspirants or deodorants cause breast cancer. If such a link existed, regulators in the UK and EU would not permit these products on the market,” Gosh says.
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Nicola Smith, senior health information manager at Cancer Research UK, echoes this: “Using deodorants or antiperspirants with aluminium in does not increase the risk of breast cancer. Looking at the best scientific evidence, it does not support a link, so people don’t have to be concerned about using these products.”
Though many of the myths about antiperspirant use aren’t true, some are proven, with burning and irritant contact dermatitis being side effects. But Ghosh says this isn’t common, and when it does it occur, it’s usually due to fragrance, alcohol, or preservatives.
“People with sensitive skin, eczema or who apply products to freshly shaved skin are more likely to notice stinging or redness,” Ghosh explains. “True allergic reactions are rare. For the vast majority of people, these products are well tolerated.”
The truth about natural deodorants
“Natural deodorants,” which are typically aluminium-free, may seem the best way to go. They use products like baking soda, starches, clays, or other absorbent powders to reduce moisture, and rely on essential oils or botanicals to mask odour. Without aluminium salts that plug sweat ducts, they are generally less effective at reducing moisture. But be warned, even the most natural of deodorants can irritate or cause allergies.
From a safety perspective, Ghosh says there is “no convincing peer-reviewed evidence that aluminium in cosmetic antiperspirants at the levels used poses a systemic health risk. The evidence base therefore supports that ‘natural’ is mainly a description of formulation and marketing, not a proven safety advantage”.
“Safety comes from good formulation and testing, not from the label natural or chemical,” adds Ghosh. “Crystal deodorants are often marketed as natural, but they are made of potassium alum, which is a type of aluminium salt,” she says. “The reason they are seen as natural is that they are mined and minimally processed rather than manufactured. Chemically, they still work in a similar way to standard aluminium-based antiperspirants.”
How to chose a deodorant
With endless choices on the market, are any safer or more effective than others? Ghosh says it’s a matter of personal preference: “It depends whether you want to control odour, sweat, or both.”
Sprays often contain more alcohol, which can sting freshly shaved skin. Sticks and roll-ons may feel gentler, but could leave residue on clothes.
“If you are sensitive, fragrance-free or dermatologically tested products are wise choices,” she concludes. “If sweat control matters, you need an antiperspirant, not just a deodorant. Most importantly, choose products from established brands sold in the UK or EU. All cosmetics here must legally undergo a safety assessment by a qualified professional before they can be sold in these regions.”
Finding the product to stay dry and smell fresh is a matter of trial and error, rather than of safety research homework. The main thing to look out for is any irritation – itching or a rash – caused by the ingredients.
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