It was a glorious morning as a pod of bottlenose dolphins frolicked in the Strait a few metres from our boat. They seemed to enjoy the attention. My guide, Nico, from Dolphin Adventure, pointed out that it was mating season.
Before arriving in Gibraltar, I had associated it with Barbary macaque monkeys. While its wild monkeys are a unique sight within Europe, there’s much more to this small outcrop on the southern tip of the Iberian Peninsula; for scale, it’s about double the size of the City of London financial district.
It was the wildlife that charmed me, but there are also thousands of years of history to uncover; unexpected corners – such as Catalan Bay, which, with its brightly painted buildings, looks as if it were transported from Italy’s Cinque Terre; and many markers of its relationship with the UK (red phone boxes, paying in sterling, Marks & Spencer).
As a first-time visitor, it felt baffling to me that Gibraltar isn’t part of Spain. Yet the land has been a British Overseas Territory since the Treaty of Utrecht in 1713, during the War of the Spanish Succession. No political party or pressure group in Gibraltar supports union with Spain, but Spain maintains that Gibraltar is a colony and does not recognise British occupation of parts of it.
Gibraltar’s residents both wanted to stay in the EU (“Remain” took 96 per cent of the territory’s 2006 referendum vote) and have supported remaining a British Overseas Territory (in 2002, there was a 98 per cent vote against a plan for the UK and Spain to share sovereignty).
Expect red post boxes as well as red phone boxes around the territory (Photo: Getty)Among UK passport holders, British Gibraltarians were quickly affected by Brexit with the introduction of passport checks to enter Spain at the end of the transition period – previously, they could use ID cards to cross the border.
However, it was announced in June that the UK, EU, Spain and Gibraltar had agreed to the core aspects of a formal treaty that would remove the need for border checks when travelling between Gibraltar and Spain, but would bring in EU-Spanish checks for entry and exit to Gibraltar. As such, now is an opportune time for travellers from the UK to visit Gibraltar – before any changes.
I had arrived on easyJet’s new service from Birmingham, which felt less stressful than contending with a big London airport.
Gibraltar’s location, about halfway between Cádiz and Málaga, means you can see Morocco’s Atlas Mountains across the Strait of Gibraltar on clear days from places such as the top of the Rock and Europa Point, the southernmost spot.
The Rock Hotel looks like it belongs in an Agatha Christie tale (Photo: Visit Gibraltar)There’s also a pleasing time-warp feel, as if stepping into a Britain that no longer exists. Take Gibraltar’s signature cocktail, a Joan Collins (gin, angostura bitters, lemon and lime juice, soda and simple syrup). I tried one at the Spirit of the Rock distillery in George’s Lane. Another retro favourite is the Rock Hotel, an Art Deco landmark that looks like it belongs in an Agatha Christie romp. But all these home-from-home details contrast with clear skies and purple jacaranda, a plant that’s too exotic to grow with ease in the UK.
Gibraltar might not be an obvious holiday destination, but at a time when parts of Spain are seeking to lessen their dependence on tourism income, Gibraltar wants to increase its visitor numbers. However, some residents would caveat that desire: Matthew Bossino, the owner of Vault 13, a restaurant that was recently awarded an AA rosette, said he hoped the increased tourist numbers will be made up of “respectable” visitors.
They can try freshly caught bluefin tuna and dorado from the Strait of Gibraltar, where the Atlantic meets the Mediterranean, and find affordable happy hour prices (bottles of wine from £8).
After enjoying Gibraltar’s sea, sun and handful of beaches, they may delve into its heritage. The first discovery of an adult Neanderthal skull was in Gibraltar in 1848, for example. You can see these Homo sapiens at the museum in the centre. More recent history is on display at the Second World War tunnel complex. It’s about 34 miles long and reopened in February after a renovation. It gives an idea of what life was like for soldiers stationed there, and also for Gibraltar’s civilians, during the war.
After exploring the complex, I headed for the Tunneller’s Rest, a 1940s-themed bar built within the tunnels. The bar isn’t far from Windsor Suspension Bridge and the Skywalk at the top of the Rock, where I took in views of the Spanish mainland, and of course, monkeys. The Skywalk, which was opened in 2018 by Mark Hamill, who played Luke Skywalker in Star Wars, was part of Gibraltar’s plans to attract more visitors.
Gibraltar’s high points offer views to Spain and Morocco (Photo: Steve Ball/Visit Gibraltar)Many future tourist openings are “top secret”, but work is ongoing to reopen a castle built in the 14th century by the Marinid dynasty – Berber Muslims who controlled what is now Morocco and the southern Iberian Peninsula from the mid-13th to 15th century.
Elsewhere, land reclamation is steaming ahead in an area that will be used for tourist accommodation, parking and homes. Spanish environmentalists have criticised the project as it’s in the Eastern Strait Special Conservation Zone, which is home to protected species.
Meanwhile, Gibraltar is confident in its plan to increase tourism. In April, it recorded a 41 per cent increase in cruise passenger arrivals compared with the previous year. Many of those visitors want to see the monkeys, of course. But the dolphins were the highlight of my visit – one of several unexpected joys of a trip to the Rock.
Getting there
The writer was a guest of Visit Gibraltar and easyJet. EasyJet flies from Birmingham to Gibraltar up to twice a week with fares starting from £26.99 (one way including taxes).
Staying there
EasyJet holidays offers four nights at the Sunborn Gibraltar on a B&B basis for £584pp, including flights from Birmingham on 12 October. This price includes a CITY20 promo, and terms and conditions apply.
More information
visitgibraltar.gi
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