There’s an arresting scene in J.D. Vance’s moving 2016 memoir, Hillbilly Elegy, in which Vance, a second-year student at Yale Law School, attends a dinner hosted by the white-shoe law firm Gibson, Dunn & Crutcher, in what he describes as the most expensive restaurant in which he’s ever eaten. Vance is stricken with social anxiety when asked whether he’d prefer the Sauvignon Blanc or the Chardonnay, the sparkling water or the tap. After sitting down to a place setting with nine bewildering utensils, he makes a beeline for the Men’s Room to phone his girlfriend (and future wife) Usha for advice. “Go from outside to inside,” she explains, “and don’t use the same utensil for separate dishes.”Van
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