We Asked 6 Dermatologists Which Anti-Aging Ingredient They’d Never Skip—They All Said the Same Thing ...Saudi Arabia

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I have a particular skincare drawer. You probably have one too. Mine holds a peptide serum I used twice, a snail mucin I bought because of a video, something involving mushrooms and at least three half-empty bottles of whatever was taking over my feed in a given month. Each one promised to change my skin. The drawer has cost me a lot of U.S. dollars (and some euros, too!) and has done approximately nada for my face. I’m guessing yours hasn’t been much better.So when I got the chance to ask six dermatologists to name the single anti-aging ingredient they’d never give up, I expected a bunch of different answers, plenty of hedging and at least one “it depends,” which is what you usually get when you ask experts to pick a favorite. What I got instead was all of them landing on the exact same thing, and the reasons they gave were hard to argue with.Below is why they keep choosing it, how to start using it if you haven’t, how to layer it with everything else in your routine and the specific products they actually recommend. Plus, two runner-up ingredients that you really shouldn’t skip.Related: 11 Best Barrier Repair Creams To Calm Stressed-Out Skin, Tested by Dermatologists

The Anti-Aging Hero Ingredient Dermatologists Agree On: Retinoids

Six of our experts picked a retinoid outright. “Retinoid” is the skincare active category, while “retinol” is the over-the-counter form that your skin has to convert into its active state. Tretinoin is the prescription retinoic acid, already active, which makes it stronger and more predictable but also more irritating to the skin.

“My top single-ingredient anti-aging recommendation would be retinol,” says Dr. Dendy Engelman, a double board-certified cosmetic dermatologist and Mohs surgeon at the Shafer Clinic in New York City. She explains that retinol increases cellular turnover and stimulates collagen production, so it works on fine lines, hyperpigmentation, texture and loss of elasticity all at once. Very few actives can do that.

Dr. Jenna Queller, a board-certified dermatologist and the founder of DermWorks, makes the same pick for the same reason. Retinoids are one of the few topical ingredients she can point to for multiple aspects of skin aging rather than just wrinkles.

Several experts go further and name the prescription version specifically. Dr. Sejal Shah, a board-certified dermatologist and founder of SmarterSkin Dermatology, calls tretinoin the “gold standard” topical therapy for photoaging.

Dr. Whitney Tolpinrud, a board-certified dermatologist and medical director at Agency, describes how it works at the cellular level, explaining that tretinoin binds to nuclear receptors in skin cells, speeding up turnover and stimulating type I and III collagen production, which over time shows up as smoother texture, better firmness and fewer fine lines.

Dr. Marie Jhin, a board-certified dermatologist and chief medical officer at Musely, tells Parade that one prescription can replace several products. The same ingredient can address fine lines, discoloration, texture and breakouts.

And Dr. Kseniya Kobets, director of cosmetic dermatology at Montefiore Einstein Advanced Care, says that for existing sun damage, fine lines and uneven texture, she’d choose a retinoid, with tretinoin as what she calls the “OG,” though over-the-counter retinol or retinaldehyde can work and may be easier to live with.

Six experts, one ingredient. Not too shabby!

Related: The 15 Best Retinol Body Lotions, According to Celebrity Dermatologists

Why Retinol Outperforms Other Skincare Trends

It isn’t that retinoids are flashy—it’s that they’re tried-and-true.

“What separates retinol from the ever-evolving skincare trends is the depth of evidence supporting them,” Dr. Engelman tells Parade. Retinol has decades of clinical data behind it.

Dr. Tolpinrud adds that tretinoin is a regulated prescription medication studied in controlled trials for decades, with FDA approval for wrinkles and photoaging, a bar most cosmetic ingredients never have to clear. Where trending ingredients deliver surface hydration or antioxidant support, tretinoin works structurally.

Dr. Shah points out that retinoids aren’t right for everyone though, and newer ingredients can also be beneficial (more about that below).

Related: 11 Best Skin-Tightening Moisturizers, According to Celebrity Derms

How To Incorporate a Retinoid Into Your Daily Routine

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Every expert said the same two things: apply at night and go slowly.

Start with two nights a week and build from there as your skin adapts, Dr. Engelman says. She’d much rather a patient use a retinoid comfortably three nights a week for years than every night for one week, wreck their barrier and quit forever.

Dr. Queller suggests picking two specific nights, like Monday and Thursday, and increasing from there. “You don’t get bonus points for irritating your face,” she says.

Shah’s basic evening lineup is cleanser, retinoid, moisturizer. For sensitive skin, moisturizer can go before, after or both.

On amount, Dr. Kobets and Dr. Jhin both say a pea-sized dose covers the whole face. Apply it to clean, dry skin. Dr. Tolpinrud goes further and suggests waiting roughly 20 to 30 minutes after cleansing so skin is fully dry, since damp skin increases penetration and irritation.

Then there’s the part nobody gets to skip: sunscreen every morning, because retinoids increase photosensitivity. Dr. Queller calls it non-negotiable, and Dr. Tolpinrud notes UV exposure also degrades the retinoid itself, so daily SPF protects your skin and your results.

According to Dr. Tolpinrud, texture and tone improvements usually show up around eight to 12 weeks with continued progress over several months, and benefits fade if you stop, which makes this a long-term habit rather than a course of treatment.

Related: 9 Drugstore Serums That Target Sagging Skin, According to Dermatologists

Potential Side Effects and How To Layer It Safely

Dryness, peeling, redness and stinging are the standard side effects, and they’re most likely when you move too fast.

“Those symptoms are not proof that the product is ‘working harder,'” Dr. Engelman says. Irritated skin is not the goal. Dr. Kobets is equally firm that more irritation doesn’t mean more collagen, and inflammation can actually worsen discoloration if you’re prone to post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation.

If your skin turns pink, burns or suddenly stings when you apply products that never bothered you, Dr. Kobets says to pause the retinoid and other actives, moisturize gently and restart less often once things settle.

Related: Experiencing “Ozempic Face”? Dermatologists Say You Need These 3 Plumping Ingredients

5 Rules for Layering Retinoids With Other Actives

Use vitamin C in the morning, and a retinoid at night. Every expert who addressed it said this. Dr. Shah’s exact sequence is vitamin C, then moisturizer, then sunscreen in the morning, with retinol and moisturizer at night. Dr. Tolpinrud notes the split avoids compounding irritation while vitamin C adds daytime antioxidant support. Don’t stack retinol on top of tretinoin. Retinol is a weaker precursor in the same pathway, Dr. Tolpinrud says, so combining them adds irritation without added benefit. Dr. Jhin agrees there’s no reason to use both. Alternate acids rather than combining them. Glycolic, lactic and salicylic acid can live in the same routine as a retinoid, Dr. Shah says, just not on the same night until your tolerance is established. The same goes for benzoyl peroxide and physical scrubs. Try the sandwich method if you’re sensitive. Moisturizer, retinoid, then more moisturizer. Dr. Engelman, Dr. Kobets and Dr. Tolpinrud all recommend it during the adjustment period. Skip retinoids entirely during pregnancy or while trying to conceive, which both Dr. Kobets and Dr. Jhin flagged. Talk to your doctor if you’re breastfeeding or managing a skin condition.

Related: The 10 Best Makeup and Skincare Gifts for Women Over 50 From Our 49-Year-Old Beauty Editor

6 Dermatologist-Approved Product Recommendations

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For non-prescription formulas, Dr. Engelman likes Medik8 Crystal Retinal ($56) specifically because it comes in progressive strengths, so you can start low and climb as your skin adjusts. She also recommends Dr. Diamond’s Metacine InstaFacial Emulsion ($350), which uses hydroxypinacolone retinoate, a next-generation retinoid that supports renewal without the purge period other formulas trigger. Dr. Shah likes Mother Science Retinol Synergist ($96), which combines encapsulated retinol with barrier-supporting lipids. A more affordable option is La Roche-Posay Retinol B3 ($44.99), which pairs pure retinol with niacinamide, hyaluronic acid and glycerin for anyone who wants results without a complicated routine. Dr. Kobets adds Skinbetter Science AlphaRet Overnight Cream ($145) to the list. Her bottom line is that the best choice is whichever one you will use regularly. Dr. Queller’s pick is Face Reality’s Age-Adaptive Clearing Serum ($76), which she reaches for when a patient is fighting breakouts and visible aging at once.

Related: 12 Best Products for Age Spots, According to Celebrity Dermatologists

2 More Anti-Aging Ingredients To Incorporate Into Your Skincare Routine, Experts Say

While retinol had six dermatologists singing its praises, there are two other popular anti-aging products that experts want to call out.

1: Sunscreen

It’s essential to put on broad-spectrum SPF 30 or higher on the face and any exposed skin every morning, reapplied before additional sun exposure. Dr. Tolpinrud’s morning recommendation is Agency’s SilkScreen ($65), a tinted mineral SPF 50 with iron oxides for visible light protection, which standard UV-only formulas don’t address. (That matters for anyone dealing with melasma or pigmentation.)

2: Vitamin C

Dr. Kobets says if you can’t tolerate retinoids, or you’re focused on prevention and early fine lines, a well-formulated vitamin C serum alongside sunscreen is a strong option, especially if pigmentation is your main concern.

Up Next:

Related: The French Skincare Ritual That Can Boost Circulation and Lymphatic Drainage, According to a Dermatologist

Sources:

Dr. Dendy Engelman, double board-certified cosmetic dermatologist and Mohs surgeon, Shafer Clinic Dr. Jenna Queller, board-certified dermatologist and founder of DermWorks Dr. Sejal Shah, board-certified dermatologist and founder of SmarterSkin Dermatology Dr. Kseniya Kobets, director of cosmetic dermatology, Montefiore Einstein Advanced Care Dr. Whitney Tolpinrud, board-certified dermatologist and medical director at Agency Dr. Marie Jhin, board-certified dermatologist and chief medical officer at Musely

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