The rugged, wild beauty of Essex’s North Sea beaches is not a novel holiday destination, but rather one that is slowly being rediscovered. Whilst it may not offer the classic coves and cliffs seen in places like Cornwall, the coastal landscape of Essex is certainly a sight of open skies and classic English shores.
Somewhere along the 350 miles of Essex’s coast, sprinkled with faded seaside resorts, sits Mersea Island. In between the Colne and Blackwater estuaries, and separated from the mainland by the Strood Channel – a tidal causeway which fills twice every day – is an island which lets you step back in time to a slower pace of life.
The island stretches just five-by-two miles, and is split into the distinctive West Mersea and East Mersea, with pebble beaches and beach huts filling the space in between. The former, is a waterfront town with a fishing-village image, whilst the latter is a sleepier countryside hamlet.
West Mersea, the island’s town, has a working waterfront with fishing-village look. The countryside and East Mersea hamlet are sleepier. In between lie sand-and-pebble shores lined with holiday parks and beach huts.
Summer is boom season and visitor numbers swell: the school holidays are particularly busy. Things get liveliest during the Mersea Island Regatta, which fills two August weekends with water sports, boat races and fireworks. Off-season, shorebirds replace beachgoers.
For more see visitessex.com
How to get there
Mersea is just under 10 miles from Colchester, which is reached via the A12 or on the London-Ipswich railway served by Greater Anglia, with connections to Mersea provided by First Bus (numbers 67 or 86). The island is small enough to travel around by bike or on foot. Cars are permitted on the island.
Where to stay
The White Hart Inn’s bustling beer garden (Photo: Oliver Suckling/CliQQ Studios)The White Hart Inn on West Mersea’s high street has six lovely guestrooms, each named after local landmarks and featuring bold colours, walk-in showers and inviting beds. B&B doubles from £185. The pub is 250 yards from Monkey Beach, a small pebbly section of shore. It also holds regular events, such as jazz nights.
Parkdean Resorts’ Coopers Beach Holiday Park has three-night stays in a lodge for four from £409 and is right on the beach. There are also indoor and outdoor pools, an on-site café, restaurant and adventure playground.
The Victory at Mersea is a pub with rooms on the Coast Road in West Mersea. Doubles from £116 per night with breakfast. Accessible room available.
What to do first
Take a stroll alongside Victoria Esplanade’s colourful beach huts. Alternatively, stride out along the 13-mile coast path (part of the King Charles III England Coast Path) that loops around the island. It starts at West Mersea and follows the sea wall along the Strood and Pyefleet Channels and takes in sand and shingle beaches, views of low cliffs and woodland.
Where to find souvenirs
East Mersea’s beaches are composed of sediments deposited by Ice Age rivers. Erosion has revealed the bones of long-extinct species of elephant and bison, although you are more likely to find fossilised sharks’ teeth, which are reasonably common.
Pick up edible treats or gifts from Mersea Barns in East Mersea.
What to see
Fresh seafood is served from shacks on the island (Photo: John Keeble/Getty)Mersea is synonymous with seafood. Although the fishing fleet has shrivelled since its heyday, oysters remain a valuable commodity. They’ve been cultivated here since Roman times: a tradition maintained by seventh-generation oysterman Richard Haward, whose harvest supplies London’s Borough Market and restaurants nationwide.
You’ll need luck to see one, but Mersea is home to a population of native red squirrels. Nearly 30 individuals were introduced here in 2012 and, despite the constant threat of disease-carrying grey squirrels crossing the Strood, their numbers have grown to around 50.
Where to get a drink
Snag a picnic bench in The Victory’s seafront garden, settle back with a beer, jug of Pimm’s or a seasonal cocktail (try the gin-and-juice Victory breeze) and watch the setting sun as it sets the sky ablaze across the Blackwater estuary.
Where to book for dinner
The White Hart’s Modern British menu celebrates seasonal, fresh and local: Essex meats, Suffolk cheeses and fish from local boats. Menu highlights might include chateaubriand, seafood stew or Mersea oysters, supported by East Anglian beers and English wines.
Enjoy a stroll along the beach (Photo: Visit Essex)Where to go to the beach
West Mersea Beach is the broadest, with ample space to stretch out on the sand (or rent a beach hut from £65 per day). Even at high tide, the water is reasonably shallow. Shops at the holiday parks sell buckets, spades and beach essentials.
Where to go for lunch
The waterfront of West Mersea’s Coast Road is home to a scattering of unpretentious seafood shacks. Aim for The Company Shed to try dressed crab, scallops, fishcakes or a seafood platter. The drinks list keeps it local by sourcing from Mersea’s microbrewery and vineyard.
Where to find green spaces
The meadows, scrub and sandy beach at Cudmore Grove Country Park provide a peaceful place to go birdwatching, take a stroll or have a picnic. Look out for Second World War gun emplacements as well as the local wildlife, which includes red squirrels, butterflies, barn owls, woodpeckers, wildfowl and adders.
Mersea Island is perfect for a quiet getaway (Photo: Mark Draper/Visit Essex)There’s no need to choose between beer and wine at Mersea Island Vineyard. The coastal terroir suits Rechsteiner and Muller Thurgau vines, and there’s a microbrewery, too. Buy the fruits of both at Cork & Cap, the on-site shop, and raise a glass to toast your weekend away.
Three things you might not know about Mersea Island…
1) Mersea is the UK’s easternmost inhabited island
2) West Mersea’s parish church was rebuilt in the 10th century after being ravaged by Viking raiders.
3) In Tudor times, East Mersea was home to a blockhouse (fort) built by Henry VIII to protect against French and Spanish invasions.
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