For years, Nurhayati had worked for Wella, the German haircare company, where she acquired the contacts and know-how to produce cosmetics tailored for Southeast Asia’s most populous nation. At the outset, the business had only five staff—all family—and the first outside employee was a neighbor.
“Before, U.S. and European brands were the leaders in the Indonesian market,” says Sari, a dermatologist who today serves as Paragon’s deputy CEO. “But then Indonesian women start to realize, ‘OK, we have a different definition of beauty.’”
TIME spoke with Sari about Paragon’s journey and redefining what halal beauty means for a global marketplace.
How has Paragon changed over the last four decades?
How would you explain halal beauty to someone who isn't familiar with the concept?
That definition also means there's some degree of interpretation. There's some debate about how much alcohol that can be permitted for cosmetics still to be halal. What is Paragon's take on that?
Do you want your products to be seen primarily as halal, or do you want them to be seen as ethical to have wider appeal?
Is it difficult to explain the halal concept to suppliers to ensure that everything you source for your products meets that criteria?
Is there a price premium on halal? Is it more expensive to source halal materials than for a commercial company to make a comparative product?
Do you fear that marketing your product as halal in a Western consumer market may be seen as exclusionary and put people off because they think that is just something for Muslims?
Some of your products are very popular with Indonesian men. Has that surprised you?
I understand that Paragon is concentrating more on exporting your products. Is that mainly to the Middle East or potentially to Western countries as well?
Is the Middle East where you see the biggest growth?
Will you aim to reach Europe and the U.S. at some point?
The world seems to be experiencing rising Islamophobia. Do you think that halal products can help break down boundaries and show people that Muslim culture is interested in beauty, modern, and progressive?
How are you utilizing AI in your product design and research?
I understand that you're embracing e-commerce platforms such as TikTok to market your products. Why is that?
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