How the New Food Pyramid Fits Into the Broader Conservative Project ...Middle East

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The USDA has been releasing dietary guidelines since 1894 and visually representing them for the public since 1943. It began with a color-coded circle made up of the “Basic 7” food groups, urging Americans to eat from each one every day. This was replaced in 1955 with a “daily food guide” made up of the four food groups that remain etched into contemporary nutrition discourse: milk, meat, fruits and vegetables, and bread and cereals. In 1977, the Senate Select Committee on Nutrition and Human Needs (commonly known as the McGovern Committee) recommended that Americans eat less refined sugar, red and fatty meat, dairy, and eggs, and more fruit and vegetables. In 1992, the “food pyramid” was introduced, schematizing five food groups—fruits and veggies were separated, beans and nuts added to meats to make a de facto “protein” category—as an ascending structure that should guide daily food consumption, accompanied by the introduction of daily recommended servings of each food group. This, in turn, was replaced in 2011 by MyPlate, a much-discussed reset that laid out the five food groups in proportional quantities on a plate as a heuristic for crafting healthy meals. Now, the Trump administration has re-introduced the food pyramid, but turned it upside down—perhaps a little too on the nose.

But the guidelines have been slowly moving toward representing a growing scientific consensus about healthy diets, championing a range of proteins and fortified foods as well as whole and fresh foods, and tailoring recommended serving sizes to consumers’ caloric and other health needs. Instead of showing any particular foods as visual cues, the MyPlate image simply showed proportions of food groups on a plate, leaving the contents up to consumers’ cultural and gustatory preferences as well as budgets.

While, overall, Americans’ diets remain wretched, the dietary guidelines and MyPlate have been provably effective in shaping school lunches; despite their bad reputation, these school lunches have been found by research to be among the healthiest meals the average student eats during the day. But that’s because lunches covered by the USDA are de facto mandated; individual consumer choice is not.

The MAHA right’s target here isn’t just liberals, though; it’s the public’s general faith in bureaucratic processes, expertise, and science. Despite the administration’s claims that the new guidelines would fight against agribusiness special interests, they have done no such thing. The government mostly ignored the advice of its advisory committee in favor of a different, handpicked committee heavily linked to the meat and dairy industry. Rather than rejecting scientific expertise outright, the new guidelines are based on the findings of a select group of experts who happen to support the priors of members of the administration. In that sense, the guidelines and the new pyramid function as a culture war scalp, valued because they represent right-wing political ascendency: At long last, the American right may crow, they’ve brought previously aloof government agencies and academics to heel.

To the extent the guidelines—so similar yet so different, and crucially so differently branded from their predecessor—represent an agenda, it is not simply to facilitate a particular outcome favored by meat corporations but also to invert good governance liberalism. Proponents of an efficient regulatory and welfare state aim to deliver effective public services precisely to strengthen a broader case for the value of government itself. Conservatives have long sneered at this approach and argued government must be reduced; in his 1981 inaugural address, Ronald Reagan famously declared, “Government is not the solution to our problem; government is the problem.”

But as much enthusiasm as they had for reducing government, Reaganites rarely have made a public case for suborning it. MAHA’s institution-wrecking turns Reagan on his head much like it does the pyramid: the solution, it seems to suggest, to a citizenry grown overly dependent on the state is not less government, but contrarian government. Americans, of course, will probably ignore this guidance much as they have the last century or so of prior guidance, continuing to feast on meat and fat and reaping the long-term health rewards. The lasting legacy of the inverted pyramid, however, may well be kids fed artery-clogging meatloaf at school—with a side of declining faith in both government and science.

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