Most recently, anti-perspirant-deodorant brand Mitchum came under scrutiny when hundreds of customers complained on social media of side-effects like agonising weeping spots, redness and irritation after using their product.
Armpits are particularly sensitive because the outer layer of skin is thinner than on other parts of the body. Rani Ghosh, a toxicologist who has worked within the cosmetics and medical devices industry for 10 years, tells The i Paper: “The barrier is less robust and more prone to irritation, especially because the area is warm, humid and often freshly shaved.”
Amid heightened concerns and lots of misinformation, let’s explore what the research really says about deodorant.
Deodorants are designed to soak up sweat, kill bacteria, and mask body odour, many of them formulated with alcohol to target body odour-causing bacteria, and baking soda to create a PH environment too high for odour-causing bacteria to flourish.
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“Antiperspirants help prevent perspiration by dissolving in sweat and creating a thin coating of gel that covers the sweat glands,” Rainsford says. “This coating reduces the amount of sweat released onto the surface of the skin and therefore reduces the risk of odour.”
Your body needs sweat
Sweating is your body’s way of regulating your temperature. It’s mostly made up of water, but also includes small amounts of sodium, chloride, and other substances, which are secreted when you’re nervous (cortical sweating), eating spicy food (medullary sweating), or are overheated (hypothalamic sweating).
“Eccrine glands across the body produce watery sweat that cools us by evaporation. In the armpits, apocrine glands add a thicker secretion that is broken down by skin bacteria into compounds that smell,” Gosh says. “The sweat itself is harmless, but the odour can be socially unwanted, which is why many people choose deodorants and antiperspirants.”
A lingering concern passed down from older generations and more recently suggested by natural deodorant marketing, is that antiperspirants block harmful “toxins” from escaping your body.
As for worries about aluminium compounds in anti-perspirants leading to higher risk of Alzheimer’s disease, the study the rumour originated from isn’t very reliable.
Large human studies and systematic reviews have found no reliable evidence that cosmetic use of aluminium increases the risk of Alzheimer’s. Reputable organisations such as the Alzheimer’s Society also agree there is no proven link.
“Cancer Research UK and the US National Cancer Institute have both stated clearly that there is no scientific evidence that antiperspirants or deodorants cause breast cancer. If such a link existed, regulators in the UK and EU would not permit these products on the market,” Gosh says.
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Though many of the myths about antiperspirant use aren’t true, some are proven, with burning and irritant contact dermatitis being side effects. But Ghosh says this isn’t common, and when it does it occur, it’s usually due to fragrance, alcohol, or preservatives.
The truth about natural deodorants
“Natural deodorants,” which are typically aluminium-free, may seem the best way to go. They use products like baking soda, starches, clays, or other absorbent powders to reduce moisture, and rely on essential oils or botanicals to mask odour. Without aluminium salts that plug sweat ducts, they are generally less effective at reducing moisture. But be warned, even the most natural of deodorants can irritate or cause allergies.
“Safety comes from good formulation and testing, not from the label natural or chemical,” adds Ghosh. “Crystal deodorants are often marketed as natural, but they are made of potassium alum, which is a type of aluminium salt,” she says. “The reason they are seen as natural is that they are mined and minimally processed rather than manufactured. Chemically, they still work in a similar way to standard aluminium-based antiperspirants.”
How to chose a deodorant
Sprays often contain more alcohol, which can sting freshly shaved skin. Sticks and roll-ons may feel gentler, but could leave residue on clothes.
Finding the product to stay dry and smell fresh is a matter of trial and error, rather than of safety research homework. The main thing to look out for is any irritation – itching or a rash – caused by the ingredients.
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