Before arriving in Gibraltar, I had associated it with Barbary macaque monkeys. While its wild monkeys are a unique sight within Europe, there’s much more to this small outcrop on the southern tip of the Iberian Peninsula; for scale, it’s about double the size of the City of London financial district.
Bottlenose dolphins can be seen off the shores of Gibraltar (Photo: Visit Gibraltar)As a first-time visitor, it felt baffling to me that Gibraltar isn’t part of Spain. Yet the land has been a British Overseas Territory since the Treaty of Utrecht in 1713, during the War of the Spanish Succession. No political party or pressure group in Gibraltar supports union with Spain, but Spain maintains that Gibraltar is a colony and does not recognise British occupation of parts of it.
Expect red post boxes as well as red phone boxes around the territory (Photo: Getty)
Among UK passport holders, British Gibraltarians were quickly affected by Brexit with the introduction of passport checks to enter Spain at the end of the transition period – previously, they could use ID cards to cross the border.
I had arrived on easyJet’s new service from Birmingham, which felt less stressful than contending with a big London airport.
The Rock Hotel looks like it belongs in an Agatha Christie tale (Photo: Visit Gibraltar)
There’s also a pleasing time-warp feel, as if stepping into a Britain that no longer exists. Take Gibraltar’s signature cocktail, a Joan Collins (gin, angostura bitters, lemon and lime juice, soda and simple syrup). I tried one at the Spirit of the Rock distillery in George’s Lane. Another retro favourite is the Rock Hotel, an Art Deco landmark that looks like it belongs in an Agatha Christie romp. But all these home-from-home details contrast with clear skies and purple jacaranda, a plant that’s too exotic to grow with ease in the UK.
They can try freshly caught bluefin tuna and dorado from the Strait of Gibraltar, where the Atlantic meets the Mediterranean, and find affordable happy hour prices (bottles of wine from £8).
After exploring the complex, I headed for the Tunneller’s Rest, a 1940s-themed bar built within the tunnels. The bar isn’t far from Windsor Suspension Bridge and the Skywalk at the top of the Rock, where I took in views of the Spanish mainland, and of course, monkeys. The Skywalk, which was opened in 2018 by Mark Hamill, who played Luke Skywalker in Star Wars, was part of Gibraltar’s plans to attract more visitors.
Gibraltar’s high points offer views to Spain and Morocco (Photo: Steve Ball/Visit Gibraltar)Elsewhere, land reclamation is steaming ahead in an area that will be used for tourist accommodation, parking and homes. Spanish environmentalists have criticised the project as it’s in the Eastern Strait Special Conservation Zone, which is home to protected species.
Meanwhile, Gibraltar is confident in its plan to increase tourism. In April, it recorded a 41 per cent increase in cruise passenger arrivals compared with the previous year. Many of those visitors want to see the monkeys, of course. But the dolphins were the highlight of my visit – one of several unexpected joys of a trip to the Rock.
Getting there
The writer was a guest of Visit Gibraltar and easyJet. EasyJet flies from Birmingham to Gibraltar up to twice a week with fares starting from £26.99 (one way including taxes).
Staying there
EasyJet holidays offers four nights at the Sunborn Gibraltar on a B&B basis for £584pp, including flights from Birmingham on 12 October. This price includes a CITY20 promo, and terms and conditions apply.
More information
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