The 68-year-old maestro, who has helmed the Parisian institution for nearly four decades, eliminated meat, fish, dairy, and eggs from his menu on July 21, retaining only honey from his personal apiary.
The restaurant, located in the capital’s upscale seventh arrondissement, previously gained fame as a premier rotisserie before Passard’s 2001 pivot toward vegetable-focused gastronomy.
While environmental concerns influenced the shift, Passard emphasizes the culinary challenge: “I’m more comfortable with plants.
Fellow chef Claire Vallee, who earned France’s first Michelin star for a vegan restaurant in 2021, acknowledges the difficulty of Passard’s undertaking.
Globally, only a handful of high-end vegan restaurants hold Michelin recognition, including New York’s three-star Eleven Madison Park and the Netherlands’ two-star De Nieuwe Winkel.
Michelin Guide’s international director Gwendal Poullennec expressed support for L’Arpege’s evolution, calling it a “positive approach.” Passard remains unfazed by potential rating changes, stating, “We’re going to have to deliver. If we can maintain this level of quality, then I’m extremely confident.” - AFP
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