The swell was pushing in from one side then bouncing off the cliff walls and ricocheting back, making our kayak bounce around like we were in a washing machine.
Our group of four kayaks was more than 50 feet inside a cave along the coast of Santa Cruz Island, one of five islands that make up Channel Islands National Park.
The cave stretched much deeper but our guide, with safety in mind, kept us near the entrance.
A hiker walks past Giant coreopsis on the Potato Harbor Trail on Santa Cruz Island off the California coast on Tuesday, May 6, 2025. (Photo by Paul Bersebach, Orange County Register/SCNG) The Island scrub jay is only found on Santa Cruz Island off the coast of California. The Island jay is distinguished from its mainland cousin, the scrub jay, by its larger size and bright blue color, according to the National Park Service. (Photo by Paul Bersebach, Orange County Register/SCNG) Kayakers paddle through a rock formation during a sea cave tour on Santa Cruz Island off the California coast on Monday, May 5, 2025. (Photo by Paul Bersebach, Orange County Register/SCNG) A hiker passes Delphine’s Grove on Santa Cruz Island off the California coast on Monday, May 5, 2025. The grove was started by Delphine Claire, the daughter of an early investor and farming family on the island in the early 1900’s, according to the National Park Service. (Photo by Paul Bersebach, Orange County Register/SCNG) A Santa Cruz Island Fox roams the Scorpion Canyon area of Santa Cruz Island on Tuesday, May 6, 2025. Each of the Channel Islands has its own subspecies that are found nowhere else in the world. (Photo by Paul Bersebach, Orange County Register/SCNG) Santa Cruz is one of five islands that make up Channel Islands National Park off the California coast. (Photo by Paul Bersebach, Orange County Register/SCNG) A raven looks for lunch at Scorpion Canyon Campground on Santa Cruz Island in Santa Cruz off the California coast on Monday, May 5, 2025. (Photo by Paul Bersebach, Orange County Register/SCNG) Potato Harbor is seen from an overlook on Santa Cruz Island off the California coast on Tuesday, May 6, 2025. (Photo by Paul Bersebach, Orange County Register/SCNG) Scorpion Canyon Campground has 31 sites for primitive camping on Santa Cruz Island off the California coast. Sites include a food storage box, picnic table, potable water and a pit toilet. (Photo by Paul Bersebach, Orange County Register/SCNG) A Santa Cruz Island Fox passes a raven on Santa Cruz Island off the California coast on Tuesday, May 6, 2025. Each of the Channel Islands has its own subspecies of the fox that are found nowhere else in the world. (Photo by Paul Bersebach, Orange County Register/SCNG) Visitors exit the Island Packers ferry to an adjustable platform at Scorpion Anchorage on Santa Cruz Island on Tuesday, May 6, 2025. Santa Cruz is one of five islands that make up Channel Islands National Park off the California coast. (Photo by Paul Bersebach, Orange County Register/SCNG) A Spotted towhee sits in giant coreopsis on Santa Cruz Island off the California coast on Tuesday, May 6, 2025. (Photo by Paul Bersebach, Orange County Register/SCNG) Hikers walk on Santa Cruz Island with Anacapa Island in the distance on Tuesday, May 6, 2025. Santa Cruz and Anacapa are two of the five islands that make up Channel Islands National Park off the California coast. (Photo by Paul Bersebach, Orange County Register/SCNG) Tragopogon porrifolius, commonly known as salsify or oyster plant, grows along the trail on Santa Cruz Island off the California coast on Tuesday, May 6, 2025. (Photo by Paul Bersebach, Orange County Register/SCNG) Kayakers enter a sea cave during a tour on Santa Cruz Island off the California coast on Monday, May 5, 2025. (Photo by Paul Bersebach, Orange County Register/SCNG) A Santa Cruz Island Fox looks for lunch in the Scorpion Canyon Campground of Santa Cruz Island off the California coast on Tuesday, May 6, 2025. Each of the Channel Islands has its own subspecies of the fox that are found nowhere else in the world. (Photo by Paul Bersebach, Orange County Register/SCNG) A humpback whale passes Santa Cruz Island off the California coast on Tuesday, May 6, 2025. (Photo by Paul Bersebach, Orange County Register/SCNG) A kayaker paddles through kelp while on a sea cave tour on Santa Cruz Island off the California coast on Monday, May 5, 2025. (Photo by Paul Bersebach, Orange County Register/SCNG) A hiker look over the edge near Cavern Point on Santa Cruz Island off the California coast on Tuesday, May 6, 2025. (Photo by Paul Bersebach, Orange County Register/SCNG) Island morning glory grows near a windmill in the Scorpion Ranch area on Santa Cruz Island off the California coast on Monday, May 5, 2025. The windmill was one of three that pumped water for the ranch operation in the 1880’s, according the National Park Service. (Photo by Paul Bersebach, Orange County Register/SCNG) Scorpion Rock is illuminated by the setting sun on Santa Cruz Island off the California coast on Monday, May 5, 2025. (Photo by Paul Bersebach, Orange County Register/SCNG) Scorpion Anchorage is one of two landing spots for a ferry ride to Santa Cruz Island. Santa Cruz is one of five islands that make up Channel Islands National Park off the California coast. (Photo by Paul Bersebach, Orange County Register/SCNG) Show Caption1 of 22A hiker walks past Giant coreopsis on the Potato Harbor Trail on Santa Cruz Island off the California coast on Tuesday, May 6, 2025. (Photo by Paul Bersebach, Orange County Register/SCNG) ExpandThe group spent a few minutes inside the cave fighting the swell and negotiating the sea walls before moving on to the next one.
Our trip had already been pushed back a day because of rough weather that was moving out of the area.
As the skies cleared we were able to enjoy 90 minutes on the water learning about the ecosystem and natural features of the island from our trained guide.
Channel Islands National Park had just over 262,000 recreation visits in 2024, making in one of the least visited in California, according to National Park Service data.
The islands aren’t easy to get to and services are limited.
The parks website says “A visit to the Channel Islands is an exercise in preparation and self-reliance”.
Those who make it to Santa Cruz after an hourlong ferry ride out of Ventura are rewarded with 77 miles of craggy coastline cliffs, vast sea caves and vibrant tide pools.
The island has 31 campsites each with a picnic table and an animal box for food. Potable water is available at Scorpion Anchorage but not Prisoners Harbor.
Campsites are a short 1/2-mile walk from the dock at Scorpion Anchorage and most sites have some shade.
Most of Santa Cruz Island is privately owned by The Nature Conservancy.
The eastern side, about 24% of the island, is managed by the National Park Service where day hikers and campers can explore.
The ferry brings visitors to Scorpion Anchorage where it backs up to a movable platform at the dock.
Guests then, with the help of staff, time the swell to step onto the platform and the dock.
A ranger gives a short orientation and guidance to help protect the island’s ecosystem.
The islands are home to unique plants and animals, including distinct subspecies of deer mouse and Island fox. Twenty-three creatures are endemic terrestrial animals — those found in only one geographic area and nowhere else on earth — on the islands.
The bright blue Island scrub jay is only found on Santa Cruz Island.
Compared to its mainland cousin, the California scrub jay, it is a darker blue, larger and has a unique call.
Structures from Scorpion Ranch are visible right off the boat and educate visitors on the history of the island.
From the 1850s to the mid-2000’ feral sheep and pigs as well as introduced animals called Santa Cruz Island home. Livestock ranching began in the 1850s with sheep, cattle, horses and pigs. Hay, vegetables, almonds, grapes and walnuts were also grown.
In the 1880s structures were added including ranch houses, winery, a chapel and blacksmith and saddle shops. Kilns were also added to make bricks and mortar, according to the National Park Service website.
The island was privately owned until 1997 when the it was sold to the National Park Service.
Today on Santa Cruz visitors can tour sea caves, rent snorkeling equipment or sign up for kayaking or snorkeling tours. Reservations must be made in advance on the mainland so planing ahead is key.
As the NPS website says, there are “no remedies for poor planning once you have arrived”.
If you go
Ferry reservations: Island Packers: 805-642-1393; islandpackers.com
Camp site reservations: Recreation.gov
Island tours: Santa Barbara Adventure Co.: 805-884-9283; www.sbadventureco.com
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