A Siberian native, rhubarb has only been considered a food crop since the early 19th century. Before that, it was a pharmaceutical crop. Its great selling point in an era before long-distance shipping of fruits from around the world was that its stems were available long before strawberries and other soft fruits were ready.
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Read MoreRemember, however, that the leaves are potentially harmful and best consigned to the compost bin after harvest, where they can rot harmlessly away.
Outstanding rhubarbs for flavour and texture include “Fulton’s Strawberry Surprise”, “Raspberry Red” and, for the earliest crops, “Timperley Early”.
Select a strong, healthy root from the edge of the plant with at least one “eye” or bud. Once planted with the eye at soil level, an 8cm mulch of compost or other organic mulch around, but not over, the eye will help to suppress weeds, feed the plant and retain soil moisture.
Rhubarb growing under a forcing pot (Photo: RHS / Neil Hepworth)Allow the plants to establish uncut for the first year, watering in dry spells. Take your first harvest of young stalks in prime condition from the following March, but be sure to leave three or four stalks to sustain the plant. Gather stalks by pulling, not cutting.
For early forced shoots, cover crowns in December with a terracotta rhubarb forcer or similar container and insulate the outside with stacked fresh manure or re-used bubble wrap, when the enhanced protection should yield February sticks.
Serious forcing should be done indoors using plants dug in November, left 14 days exposed to the weather, then brought indoors, placed in a dustbin – to exclude light – covered with a little soil, and left in a warm place. Stalks should be ready within five weeks.
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