“Be careful,” the cobbler on Rue Ben Abdessadak told me. I had stopped by to get a new lining for my shoes. When he heard I was visiting Tangier alone, he immediately started advising me. “Put your backpack in front of you. Don’t take your wallet out. This town is full of bad people.” “The men here,” the young woman in the argan oil shop told me, “are the worst. Come here if you need anything. I will be here till 9 pm every night.” Tangier definitely has a reputation. Back when it was an International Zone, governed by an uneasy alliance of Western colonial powers eager to maintain their vested interest in Africa, the city had become a haven for scruffy writers and artists, from
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