Mushrooms often take the place of beef, since they’re naturally earthy and meaty. But we’re not talking portobellos or shiitakes anymore. A one-of-a-kind business here is growing harder to find varieties, and thus, more appealing to chefs. In the rarefied air of a 3-star Michelin restaurant like Smyth, in the West Loop, dessert has to be a showstopper. The kitchen sources exotic Chestnut mushrooms from a local supplier, as well as tiny enokis. “The brown enoki mushroom – which they were planning on growing the same way – most enokis are long, thin, small cap,” said John Shields, the executive chef and owner of Smyth. “And I said, ‘well what if we kept letting them grow, and let the ca
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