The highlight of Gros Morne is Western Brook Pond, a deep lake framed by towering gneiss and granite that, dating back 1.25 billion years, is twice as old as any other rock in the park. I made the easy two-mile walk, via cotton grass, black pine and bog, to reach the tour boat jetty. Sailing in between its 2,000ft-high walls, it felt right out of Norway; a landlocked “fjord” of Asgardian epic-ness. I expected to see gods carved into the sides – and the captain did point out phantom “faces” in the fissures, hanging valleys and waterfalls. On the return, the commentary stopped, and we cruised in private awe, to a CD of Newfoundland tunes. That was fine, but not a patch on the real thing, whi
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