It is mid-March, and things are quiet in Jeju, an island one hour away by plane from South Korea’s capital city of Seoul. The season for the island’s famed tangerines is over, and the cherry blossoms are stiff buds yet to full bloom. A wind working hard to cast winter aside rattles the fronds of palm trees dotted around the island and repels tourists more cautious than my friend and I. In Jeju City, we take seats at a Yemeni restaurant, the first of its kind on this island. It is the lull between lunch and dinner, but at the table in front of us, three men – a Bangladeshi, an Uzbek, and a Tajik – polish off their meal, leaving only crumpled tissues and Coke cans behind.
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