For a South African, a visit to Palestine (including its Israeli part) can be a traumatic experience; the reminder of a past characterised by discrimination, ‘separate development’, land theft, and extreme state violence and control. Yet, even knowing that there are similarities between the South African past and the Palestinian present is insufficient preparation for the experience that assaults one from arrival until departure. Because while Israel is a lot of apartheid South Africa, it is also much, much worse. To be fair, though, our beaches never boasted soldiers routinely walking around with rifles slung over their shoulders as one would find on a walk on a ‘peace
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