With only 7.4 million visitors last year — compared to 34 million in 2019 — Greece is desperate to restart tourism, but on May 14, the first day of the country’s official opening to international visitors who have proof of vaccination, proof of recovery or a negative COVID-19 PCR test, here on Crete it’s difficult to see the difference. Despite perfect blue skies, balmy waters and temperatures of 27 degrees Celsius (80 degrees Fahrenheit), the island’s golden-sand beaches are almost deserted, countless cafes are shuttered and many hotels and resorts are closed. “It’s crazy — there’s no one here. Usually, we open just after Easter and the streets are full of kids on quad bikes, but this year
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