There’s nothing quite like finding a hidden gem at a thrift store, whether it’s a vintage Coach bag, a perfectly worn-in pair of Levi’s or a designer jacket at a fraction of its original price. But just because something looks like a bargain doesn’t mean it’s worth bringing home.
In fact, some of the biggest clues about a garment’s quality have nothing to do with the brand name or price tag. From hidden wear and tear to stitching and fabric quality, there are a few important details to inspect before heading to the checkout counter.
Here are five things to check before buying secondhand clothes to make sure your thrift store finds are actually worth the money.
1. Feel the Fabric Before Checking the Price Tag
A piece of clothing could look great on a display, but the first thing you should pay attention to is how it feels. Hold the fabric up to the light to check for thinning, holes or uneven wear. Does the fabric feel strong enough for that particular garment, or is it too thin, harsh, fragile, or old?
Cotton, wool, linen, and silk are all suitable materials when they are in good condition. Cotton shirts, wool jackets, and linen light dresses become wardrobe staples because of their good condition.
However, here’s something to keep in mind: A wool sweater with a hole in the elbow has less future wear than a synthetic jacket made of durable fabric with intact seams.
Things to pay attention to: fabric appropriate for the garment, lack of serious damage, and absence of signs of excessive wear.
Related: Interior Designers Say One Thrift Store Find Makes Every Home Feel More Luxurious—Here Are 7 to Look For
2. Turn the Garment Inside Out
Always turn a thrifted garment inside out before adding it to your cart. Check the seams around the shoulders, armholes, sides, and crotch, along with the hems of skirts, dresses, and trousers. Look for secure stitching, loose threads, gaps, or fabric that appears to be pulling away from the seams.
A loose thread or small opening may be repairable, but a badly split seam or weakened fabric deserves a second look before you decide to buy.
Things to pay attention to: Seams that will not unravel, well-finished seams, and good seams.
3. Look for Damage in These Often-Overlooked Spots
When considering a thrift shop purchase, be careful to check those areas that take the most wear and tear from everyday use. On tops, look at underarms, collars, cuffs, and elbows; on pants, inner thighs, knees, seat, and pocket edges. For jackets specifically, check areas where sleeves end, elbows, lining, and pockets.
Things to pay attention to: It’s fine if you see average wear, but refrain from buying things with excessive deterioration or damage that will be hard to repair.
4. Test Every Zipper, Button and Fastener
Before purchasing, test each component—including zippers, buttons, hooks, snaps, and clasps—rather than relying on its visual appeal. Be sure to run the zipper up and down, checking that the teeth remain intact, and see whether every button is in place. Don’t forget to check for detachable parts, such as belts and hoods. While the absence of one button can be handled easily, a faulty zipper on a coat may cost you a lot more.
Things to pay attention to: zippers. Try to unlock the hooks and buttons, and take a closer look at the clasps.
Related: If You Spot Henredon at Goodwill, Designers Say to Grab It Immediately—Here Are 9 More Vintage Brands Worth Looking for
5. Check the Care Label for Hidden Costs
Read the care label before purchasing used clothing to learn about the fabric used and its level of required maintenance. Certain items, such as wool coats and silk blouses, may be worth the price, yet some may require special cleaning or maintenance. For example, items like cotton shirts and washable knits have varying maintenance requirements based on their instructions.
Things to pay attention to: finishing details that comply with the garment’s purpose and properly reading the care label.
The final check
The best secondhand clothes do not necessarily have to be the oldest, priciest, or most renowned. Instead, they should be those items that have been well constructed, well made, worn just enough, and that fit perfectly into your life.
Before making a purchasing decision, ensure that you touch the fabric, look carefully at the sewing, test the closures, and pay special attention to the parts of the clothes that get worn the most.
Most importantly, whenever you buy something for your wardrobe, make sure that it is useful to you. A well-made coat that you wear every winter is always going to be more useful to you than three random things that you bought on impulse but do not use or wear.
Next: 35 Things in Your House Right Now That Could Be Worth Money, According to Certified Appraisers
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