Up on the observation deck, I scanned the sky for even a slight cloud. There was not a trace. I addressed the planet directly: "Are you kidding me?!" I smiled with utter joy, as it had been 1,210 days since my last clear view of the sun's corona — an eternity for an avid eclipse chaser like me. Clouds had thwarted my previous eclipse chase in Texas for the 2024 total solar eclipse, which was followed by almost two-and-a-half years without a total solar eclipse.
The day before, we'd surveyed the aptly named Sol Glacier, a wall of ice on the shores of Scoresby Sund. The sound of thousands of tons of ice calving into the sea will stay with me forever, but I had the prospect of something else even more dramatic on my mind. We had to decide where to put the cruise ship for the total solar eclipse the next day. I looked at the latest cloud forecast and sighed; it showed a blue hole of sky far away on Greenland's Blosseville Coast, back the way we'd come from Iceland. Could we make it in time?
Totality from the Sylvia Earle cruise ship in Ukattip Kungersiva (Harefjord) in eastern Greenland on Aug. 12, 2026. (Image credit: Jamie Carter)
"We're seeing a trend for Ofjord to clear," said Mortimer, who, in addition to being expedition leader, is a mountaineer who's used to shooting for the summit when conditions allowed. To disappear down the channels of Scoresby was a risk; due to narwhals, the speed limit was just 3 knots (about 3.5 mph, or 5.6 km/h) — and there was no escape route. We decided to take the chance.
Jamie Carter
At precisely 5:33 p.m. on Aug. 12, I watched the sun's bright face finally disappear behind the moon's silhouette as both hung over the reddish rocks of Røde Fjord to the south. The light in Ukattip Kungersiva dissolved as a diamond ring appeared around the moon. As it faded, a luminous reddish-pink prominence — a loop of gas and magnetic fields protruding from the sun's chromosphere — took its place. It was quite possibly the s crispest, clearest and most beautiful totality to witness. The 117 guests stood in reverence throughout as they experienced something unique and impossibly precious.
Related storiesEach totality is different, but this Arctic eclipse taught me much for the next one on Aug. 2, 2027. For that event, nicknamed the "eclipse of the century," I'll be on the centerline again — but this time, for 6 minutes, 20 seconds. I will witness it from a river cruise ship in Egypt at noon, with the eclipsed sun at 82 degrees — almost directly overhead. So it will be a literal pain in the neck, but worth it.
Totality isn't just something you see; it's a landscape you briefly inhabit. In 2027, that landscape — the dark Nile busy with ships and traffic — will last the longest of any total solar eclipse for another 87 years. This time, there will be no risk but plenty of reward.
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