Elite Exped, the guiding company Purja co-founded, confirmed his death Saturday, Aug. 1, as reported by The New York Times. He was part of a 10-person international climbing team caught in the avalanche on Thursday.
Purja and the nine other climbers had been missing since the avalanche swept across the mountain around midday on Thursday, July 30. The group included six Nepali climbers and mountaineers from Pakistan, Oman, the United States and China, according to Reuters.
The company separately mourned Pur Bahadur Gurung, known as Yukta, and Nima Sherpa, describing them as Purja’s trusted climbing partners and guides.
‘14 Peaks’ Turned Nirmal Purja Into a Global Star
Kristin Harila and Tenjen Lama Sherpa later broke his speed record in 2023, completing the same group of mountains in 92 days. Purja finished another historic run in 2024 when he climbed all 14 peaks without supplemental oxygen. He returned to Broad Peak this summer, hoping to move closer to becoming the first person to complete the entire group twice without bottled oxygen. Only Cho Oyu would have remained if he had reached the summit.
From British Special Forces to Mountaineering History
His accomplishments continued well beyond his famous 2019 challenge. Purja joined the Nepali team that completed the first winter ascent of K2 in January 2021. He also took the viral 2019 photograph showing climbers waiting in a long line near Mount Everest’s summit, fueling a worldwide debate about overcrowding.
Before the Broad Peak expedition, Purja had completed 57 ascents of 8,000-meter mountains, including 29 without supplemental oxygen, according to Climbing.
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