In 1932, a traveling salesman named Herman Lay started peddling bags of potato chips out of the trunk of his Ford Model A. After nearly a century, which saw the brand provide the storied chip to their customers in colorful bags, his corporate descendants have crossed the Atlantic to commit what can only be described as culinary blasphemy.
It's called Pilla Tortilla.
Pilla Tortilla, Madrid. (Source: Erica Gerald Mason)Erica Gerald Mason
The concept sounds like a late-night college mashup: a small, retro-modern eatery where the kitchen doesn’t peel potatoes, choosing instead to hydrate Lay's potato chips in beaten egg before tossing them into the frying pan. I walked in ready to try it all, doing my part for science. I am, after all, a giver at heart.
My daughter holding the Pilla Tortilla sign. (Source: Erica Gerald Mason)Erica Gerald Mason
It shouldn't work. When you soak crispy, salted potato chips in egg, they should theoretically turn into a soggy, mushy dough. Surprisingly, they don’t. Instead, they expand, absorbing the moisture while keeping a deeply savory flavor profile that raw potatoes, which are notoriously difficult to salt evenly, can’t match.
The tortillas at Pilla Tortilla. (Source: Erica Gerald Mason)To drink, I skipped the beer and started my meal with a cold glass of tart gazpacho. The sharp, chilled tomato broth acts as the perfect appetizer, prepping the palate for the hearty egg-and-oil mixture to follow.
Beyond the Tortilla
The Mussels: Steamed mussels are served directly over a bed of Lay’s. The hot, briny ocean juice pools at the bottom of the plate, softening the chips into a rich, sea-salted mash. I found myself holding my fork like a spear, ready to jab anyone’s fingers who happened to wander too close to my platter.
Because we were there to do thorough research, we also squeezed in orders of the crispy chicken bites and ham croquettes, you know, purely for journalistic integrity.
The mussels and anchovies over chips were my favorite appetizers. (Source: Erica Gerald Mason)A Salty-Sweet Finish
My husband and daughter immediately claimed the sticky, sweet dulce de leche bowl. I fought them for the goat milk version. The earthy, slightly sour tang of the goat's milk paired with the salty crunch of the chips is a delicious way to end such a savory meal.
Dessert at Pilla Tortilla. (Source: Erica Gerald Mason)No promises, though.
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