Tomatoes are a topic I feel strongly about. When the season rolls around every summer it’s cause for celebration in my house. We eat tonnes of them; in simple salads with mozzarella, alongside fried eggs for breakfast; or even just on their own as a snack.
I think my love of tomatoes runs in my blood. My grandparents were from the south of Italy, where red fruit reigns supreme. Tomatoes there are a thing of wonder: sweet, juicy, firm and complex, with a pleasant acidity and savouriness counteracting the sugar.
But it seems that we’re all tomato-mad this summer. At Sainsbury’s there’s been a 30 per cent year-on-year sales uplift across its entire tomato range with its cherry tomatoes among the best sellers.
Emma Joslin, technical manager at Sainsbury’s, says: “Tomatoes are at their best when they’re juicy, sweet and full of flavour, and at this time of year, British tomatoes are at their seasonal peak. At Sainsbury’s, we work closely with our long-standing British growers to maintain that quality.” To get the best out of your tomatoes, Emma says keeping them out of the fridge is key – instead try a cool, dry place which helps retain their natural sweetness. But not in a fruit bowl next to bananas, in particular, as this will cause them to ripen further; and not piled on top of each other as they can bruise easily under their own weight.
But as any tomato fan will know, buying them in the UK can be like a game of Russian roulette – will you get a prized, perfect, bursting-with-flavour tomato, or an insipid watery mess?
To help you in your tomato buying endeavours this summer, I’ve tested all of the supermarket cherry tomatoes – normally a safer bet than the bigger varieties – to find out which ones you should spend your money on and which are better left on the shelf.
Aldi, Piccolato Tomatoes
220g, £1.49, from the Netherlands
The ruby-red colour made these tomatoes look promising, but on the palate they just didn’t deliver. The sweetness just isn’t quite there, with a watery, flat taste dominating by the end. Dressed up in some Extra Virgin Olive Oil (Evoo) and balsamic they’d be perfectly good in a salad, eaten with other things, but on their own they’re a bit disappointing. I think these are best used for cooking: fry them up in a hot pan with salt and Evoo, to bring out the natural sweetness, and toss them through spaghetti or even add them to a salad to create a hot element.
2/5
Tesco, Finest Piccobella Tomatoes
220g, £2.00, from the UK
While not as red, these tomatoes had a fantastic aroma that took me back to my grandmother’s garden. They smelt really homegrown – the smell of the tomato vine emanating as soon as you open the packet. They’re also slightly bigger in size than some of the others. On the label, they promise to be “tangy and sweet” and they are. The tang hits you as soon as your teeth burst through the skin and there is a pleasant sweetness there, though I’d want a little more. They definitely don’t taste watery but they don’t taste as ripe as they could be, which lets them down.
3/5
Sainsbury’s, Taste The Difference, Vittoria Cherry Vine Tomatoes
250g, £2.35, the Netherlands
Dainty, small and very red, these tomatoes also smelt great. But biting into them I was disappointed. They were a little soft; not delivering the crispness of a good cherry tomato, but the flavour wasn’t bad. I like that these ones give more of a complex, savoury hit as well as the sweetness, but I do think the texture ruins the overall experience. They don’t burst as such, but just kind of limply yield.
2/5
Aldi, Piccolato Tomatoes, 220g, £1.49; M&S, British Sweet Rosso Tomatoes, 275g, £3; Morrisons, The Best Piccolina Vine Tomatoes, 220g, £2.15Asda, Aromatico Tomatoes,
220g, £2.07, the UK
Now these are impressive. A lovely balance between sweetness and acidity, these fresh tomatoes offer such a satisfying bite. They’re fragrant, juicy, sweet and tangy with a hint of umami – which is why good tomatoes are so beloved. It amazes you that you can get such complexity of flavour in such a small, little fruit. Very nice indeed. These can be eaten like sweets or sliced and tossed in good Evoo and salt for a deliciously simple tomato salad where the quality of the produce does all the work. My only criticism is that they could do with a smidge more sweetness, but it’s marginal.
4/5
Morrisons, The Best Piccolina Vine Tomatoes
220g, £2.15, the UK
Very red and crisp but unfortunately a little lacking in flavour. More acidic than sweet which means you’d want to either cook them or dress them in something sweet like balsamic or pomegranate molasses. I’d roast these until they’re blistered and serve them on top of a garlic yoghurt for a fantastic summer dip.
2/5
Co-op, Irresistible Cherry Tomatoes
225g, £2.65, the UK
I’m always really impressed by Co-op cherry tomatoes. More often than not, they’re good quality – fresh, bursting and sweet – and as we know, finding consistency in tomatoes isn’t always easy. This pack didn’t let me down. They smelt fantastic (honestly, turn it into a perfume) and offered a pleasing amount of tang as well as the brilliant sweetness you want from tomatoes in summer.
4/5
Co-op, Irresistible Cherry Tomatoes, 225g, £2.65; Waitrose, British Cherry Tomatoes, 400g, £2.76; Sainsburys, Taste The Difference, Vittoria Cherry Vine Tomatoes 250g, £2.35Waitrose, British Cherry Tomatoes
400g, £2.76, the UK
These were unfortunately a little soft and watery. They feel mushy in the mouth, all of the juice instantly dissipating so you’re left with a rather bitter, chewy skin that gets stuck between your teeth. I expect more from Waitrose, as their fruit and veg is normally some of the best, but these were not up to scratch.
1/5
Lidl, British Piccolicious Tomatoes
400g, £2.49, the UK
By far the best! Small, very red, super fresh and fragrant, I knew I was on to a winner as soon as I gave these tomatoes a sniff – and they didn’t let me down. Intensely sweet but also tangy and savoury these deliver everything a good tomato should. They’re also great value for money – a much bigger pack for around the same price as the others – which always helps. These are so tasty you don’t need to do anything to them, you can just munch on them as if they were grapes. Fantastic. Well done Lidl.
5/5
M&S, British Sweet Rosso Tomatoes
275g, £3.00, the UK
These smell like summer. They’re firm, slightly bigger than some others, and very juicy once you burst through the skin. They are very tasty tomatoes and would be nice sliced in half and incorporated into a salad, though I must say I prefer my cherry tomatoes on the smaller side so that you can eat them whole and experience the full effect of their flavour.
4/5
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