"We are so regimented and we are so particular—it's so funny," says Dr. Purvisha Patel, a dermatologist and founder of Advanced Dermatology & Skin Cancer Associates in Memphis. The people who examine skin for a living, it turns out, tend to be meticulous about their own.
If you're swiping on antiperspirant as you run out the door, you're doing it wrong. Antiperspirants work by using aluminum to gradually plug your sweat glands, and that takes hours to happen—which is why dermatologists put it on before bed, not before work. "If people take showers in the evenings, then you dab dry your armpits, put your [antiperspirant] on, and go to sleep," says Dr. Viktoryia Kazlouskaya, a dermatologist and founder of Dermatology Circle in New York. Applied overnight on dry skin, it has time to build up its strength instead of just smearing onto your shirt. "It needs time to work," she says. "Most people don't know that." Worried your antiperspirant will wear off during a hot day? It’s perfectly fine to reapply it during the day, Kazlouskaya says.
They wear tinted sunscreen indoors and in the car
Dermatologists say a dedicated tinted sunscreen—not just a tinted foundation with SPF—is the better choice, since most people don't apply enough foundation to achieve its labeled sun protection. A tinted formula has iron oxides that give it color and also help protect against visible light. "I'm a dermatologist and I have melasma—I feel like I'm in confessional," says Dr. Melanie Palm of Art of Skin MD in San Diego, who blends a couple of tinted sunscreens together in her palm each morning, "like making a pancake." The light that aggravates her pigmentation isn't only coming from the sky. "Visible light really can cause pigmentation, and blue light can as well, particularly in people who are prone to melasma," she says. "The sun is the most potent source, but if you're under bright lights, that's going to play a role too."
They reach for dandruff shampoo when summer skin acts up
Here's one that sounds strange until you hear the science. Dandruff, tinea versicolor (a brownish summer rash), and fungal acne are all caused by the same yeast: one that feeds on oil and sweat and multiplies in the heat. "It's all the same fungus," Kazlouskaya says. "It likes oil. So when we sweat, it becomes more active." It’s common for young people to break out in the tinea versicolor rash every summer, she adds: "I already had one patient today." An over-the-counter antifungal shampoo, used as a body wash, can knock it back. She sometimes uses it after swimming to prevent rashes. "I like to use it after going to the public beach," she says.
They don't quit their retinoid—they outsmart it
A common belief—especially on social media—is that you should stop using retinoids during the summer because of increased sun exposure. Dermatologists say that's usually unnecessary. Quitting and restarting, Kazlouskaya notes, only forces your skin through the irritation-and-dryness adjustment all over again. "If you take a break, you'll have to learn how to use it again," she says. "You can go through cycles of breakouts. You can have a cycle of dryness."
Sunscreen failures tend to happen in the same overlooked places, and dermatologists are vigilant about all of them: the tops and backs of the ears, the scalp and part line, the tops of the feet, the backs of the legs, and even under the chin, which catches sun on the water. "It's not just the sun from above—you're getting the reflection of the water," Palm says. Don't forget your lips, either; Palm recommends a balm with zinc. And mind your toes. "You don't want to have little sausage beans of red digits at the end of the day," she says.
They treat sunglasses as skin care
Sunscreen stops at the eyes, but the sun doesn't—and dermatologists don't think of sunglasses as a fashion accessory. Cumulative UV exposure is linked to cataracts and growths on the sclera, or the white of the eye, which Palm says she sees in longtime surfers. It can also lead to melanoma of the eye, which is why she looks for sunglass lenses with broad coverage against both UVA and UVB, as well as polarization if you're around water.
Summer is prime time for trapped moisture, and dermatologists are picky about what they wear. Patel steers clear of tight synthetic fabrics, especially underwear, which can set you up for rashes, ingrown hairs, and yeast infections. "Everything needs to breathe," she says. Her rule of thumb is to choose cotton, which is breathable and wicks moisture away from the skin, while synthetics like polyester tend to trap heat and sweat against it—creating warm, damp conditions that encourage the growth of yeast and bacteria. The same logic applies below the ankles—she's a fan of letting your feet breathe in sandals rather than sealing them into socks and shoes all day, which is how athlete's foot gets started. "Let it all hang out," she says.
They rinse off the second they stop sweating
It's tempting to scrub your way to a summer glow, but dermatologists pump the brakes—gritty scrubs and aggressive dry brushing can be too harsh when sun exposure is already stressing your skin barrier. Palm favors a gentle chemical exfoliant over a physical one on the face, and no more than once a week on the body.
They leave a peeling sunburn alone
If something looks off, they investigate
Because we're all showing more skin this time of year, your partner or friend might notice a suspicious spot (or you might notice one on them). If you do, say something. And "if something doesn't match the rest of your spots and moles, it might be worth mentioning" to your doctor, Palm says.
Dermatologists check moles by the ABCDEs: asymmetry, border, color, diameter, and—the one Palm singles out—evolving. "E, I think, is the most important," she says. A fresh pair of eyes can flag a spot that looks off, but whether it's new or changing is something only you would know, which is why it's worth checking your own skin, too.
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