Although it’s a half-hour dramedy set in a restaurant, FX’s The Bear occupies a similar place to these high dramas in the TV landscape. Released in full on Hulu in June of 2022, its first season became a word-of-mouth sensation, coining catchphrases (“Yes, chef!”), launching A-list actors, and inspiring parasocial relationships between thirsty fans and the fictional staff of an establishment originally known as the Original Beef of Chicagoland. Then came the awards. Creator Christopher Storer raised the stakes by following the Beef’s reinvention as fine-dining destination the Bear; we delved into characters’ pasts and saw them evolve into skilled culinary artisans in the present. At the end of last year’s fourth season, with financial pressure escalating as the team pursued a Michelin star, brooding chef-owner Carmen Berzatto (Jeremy Allen White) told his deputies, chef Sydney Adamu (Ayo Edebiri) and front-of-house manager Richie Jerimovich (Ebon Moss-Bachrach), he was leaving the restaurant. Then, a special flashback episode culminated in the harrowing cliffhanger of a car smashing into Richie’s vehicle.
Ayo Edebiri in The Bear Season 5 —FX
She’ll need to develop it ASAP. Carmy hasn’t abandoned his colleagues yet, but he has fully, perhaps a bit performatively, ceded leadership of the kitchen to Syd. The Bear has always been great at registering the subtle shifts in characters’ relationships to one another; some of this season’s most fascinating scenes find these two chefs working side by side, as she struggles to direct the man who was, just yesterday, her boss and he forces himself to stay out of her way. It would be a tough night even if executing her first menu were all Syd had to worry about.
For a show as grounded as The Bear, the choice to spend a full season (or 88% of it, at least) on a single day, but to seed that day with more disasters than any workplace would conceivably face in a month, creates an odd relationship to realism. From scene to scene, the tension is more than just believable; it’s immersive. One reason viewers so quickly became invested in the series is, I think, because it put us so close to the characters, visually and emotionally, that we felt like we were sweating on the line beside them. Now, after a few seasons that emphasized their development outside the kitchen and the experiences that led them there, it feels right to keep them in that pressurized space together. It’s just strange to keep stacking catastrophes on what would already be an extraordinarily tough night, until the season becomes a haute cuisine Book of Job. This level of artifice simply wasn’t needed. It distracts from the show’s exquisite detail work and demands suspension of disbelief where none was previously required.
The Bear Season 5 —FXIn the past, I’ve also complained about the primacy of Carmy, a character whose gloomy self-involvement has never felt as rich to me as it evidently did to Storer and Calo. I had hoped that, with his departure from the restaurant imminent, we would see less of him in this final season. As it turns out, he’s always present but no longer the center of the story. It makes a big difference. Suddenly, the Bear and The Bear don’t revolve around his decisions or feelings or damage. Instead of being the protagonist, in his own mind as much as for the writers, he lets himself fade disinterestedly into the background. Richie’s wise counsel: “Not thinking about yourself all the time, that’s a good thing. But not thinking about anything is f-ckin’ depressing.” What Carmy needs is to learn how to relate to other people—or, as Richie puts it, “be a f-ckin’ human being.” All around him are colleagues who are happier than him because they’ve been collaborating and caring for each other while he’s been too wrapped up in his ego to be part of the collective.
Ayo Edebiri and Jeremy Allen White in The Bear Season 5 —FXPop culture’s default image of a master chef is a lone, tortured genius like Carmy. What The Bear suggests, through Syd’s ascendance, is that greatness is more realistically achieved through cooperation and mutual respect. We see her reward the hard work of her team and remind people to treat each other civilly and defuse the kinds of conflicts that in previous seasons derailed entire nights. It creates an atmosphere safe for improvisation, an art unto itself that can be practiced just as stunningly by the front of the house as it is in the kitchen. If the service doesn’t unfold the way anyone could’ve predicted, maybe that’s what makes it magical.
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