Tourism slowdown hits luxury spending across Europe, including Britain ...Middle East

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The world’s largest luxury group LVMH sold the Marc Jacobs fashion label for $850m (£670m), as it sharpens its focus on megabrands with global reach and profitability.

The Marc Jacobs’ sale closes a nearly three-decade chapter of LVMH representing the label and follows weaker spending by luxury shoppers and a sharp drop in Gulf tourism linked to the Iran war.

Tourism: the hidden engine of UK luxury

International tourism is a major driver of Britain’s luxury economy, contributing an estimated £30bn annually, according to Walpole. The industry body says affluent visitors spend around 14 times more than average travellers.

In London, the country’s luxury retail hub, over half of high-end spending is driven by overseas tourists.

The highest-value consumers are not Europe’s neighbours but long-haul travellers. Shoppers from the Middle East, China and the US dominate luxury spend.

Middle Eastern visitors are in particular known for exceptionally high per-capita expenditure. European tourists, including those from France, contribute volume but not the same level of luxury spending.

The bigger picture

The Marc Jacobs sale is not just a portfolio move, it is a symbol of the industry’s direction. Luxury is consolidating, and the gap between the biggest players and everyone else is widening.

For the UK, the challenge could be whether it can build its own megabrands. Or will it remain the world’s leading exporter of fashion talent and feed the very conglomerates that now dominate the market?

London, widely regarded as one of the world’s “Big Four” fashion capitals alongside Paris, Milan and New York, has long excelled at producing designers and ideas, but not at scaling them into multi‑billion-pound businesses.

The Marc Jacobs sale—and the rise of megabrands

LVMH’s divestment of Marc Jacobs is revealing. The brand, while globally recognised, sits below the conglomerate’s top tier of performers.

The group is now focusing its resources on its largest labels including Louis Vuitton, Dior and Tiffany, where scale drives profitability.

A market built on creativity—not conglomerates

While the UK remains one of the most influential fashion centres in the world, it is not one of the most commercially dominant.

Fashion contributes about £20bn annually to the UK economy, supporting hundreds of thousands of jobs. But unlike France or Italy, Britain’s sector is fragmented, defined by independent labels rather than dominant global groups.

One British “mega brand” Burberry has a reported revenue of £2.46bn in its latest financial year. By contrast, France’s LVMH controls multiple brands generating more than €5bn each annually, a threshold commonly used to define “megabrands”.

Most other British luxury names, Alexander McQueen and Mulberry operate at a significantly smaller scale. Even globally recognised labels like Stella McCartney or Victoria Beckham remain mid-sized businesses rather than industry giants.

King Charles III speaks with Designer Stella McCartney as he attends the opening show of London fashion week on February 19, 2026 in London. (Photo: Richard Pohle/WPA Pool/Getty Images)

A bifurcated future

In the UK, the likely outcome of the new megabrand focus is a two-speed fashion system.

At one end, the capital-intensive, globally distributed, and increasingly dominant megabrands, at the other, a vibrant but precarious landscape of independent designers, sustained by cultural influence rather than scale.

Britain sits firmly in the latter camp and remains a powerhouse of ideas, education and experimentation.

The role of Britain’s fashion schools

At the heart of this creative engine are institutions like Central Saint Martins (CSM), widely regarded as one of the most prestigious fashion schools in the world. Alumni include Alexander McQueen, Stella McCartney, Phoebe Philo and Riccardo Tisci, many of whom went on to define global luxury.

CSM, alongside the London College of Fashion and Royal College of Art, forms a pipeline that attracts thousands of students annually. Across the UK, there are more than 30 universities offering specialised fashion degrees, feeding a steady flow of talent into the industry.

But the gap between education and success is stark. While overall graduate employment in the UK sits at around 87.7 per cent, long-term careers in fashion, particularly as designers, are far less certain.

Industry estimates suggest only a small minority of graduates secure stable roles within fashion, and an even smaller group achieve commercial success.

Should students rethink their ambitions?

The shift toward megabrand dominance raises a critical question for emerging designers: is the goal still to launch an independent label – or to join the ecosystem of a global luxury house?

In reality, the pathways are diverging.

For decades, London’s identity has been rooted in independent creativity. Designers such as Simone Rocha, JW Anderson and Molly Goddard continue to build respected businesses through a mix of wholesale, partnerships and cultural relevance. But few scale into large enterprises without external backing.

Meanwhile, career opportunities within conglomerates such as LVMH, Kering and Richemont offer financial, stability, global platforms and access to manufacturing, distribution and marketing infrastructure.

As megabrands tighten their grip on the industry, many graduates are recalibrating their ambitions. The new aspiration may not be to become the next McQueen, but to become the next creative director within a global house.

For students graduating from Central Saint Martins and beyond, the answer may define an entire generation’s career paths.

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