Fragrances have always been a deeply personal beauty product that can create strong olfactory memories. Think about it: How often do you smell something and instantly associate it with the signature scent of someone you love?
We chatted with Anne Serrano-McClain of MCMC Fragrances, a Brooklyn-based perfume company that sources the highest quality ingredients from all over the world. Serrano-McClain studied at the Grasse Institute of Perfumery in southern France before starting her own fragrance line. During her studies, she took a year-long class on the history of perfumes, so she's particularly well-versed in vintage scents.
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Best Green Florals: Mughetto by Santa Maria NovellaBest Woody/Classic:Féminité du bois by Serge LutenBest Herbal/Chypre:Diptyque Philosykos Eau de ToiletteBest Calming Lavender:Yardley London English Lavender Eau de ToiletteBest Understated Powdery:Dior J'adore Eau de ParfumBest Vintage Gourmand/Amber:Jo Malone Sweet MilkBest Classic Citrus-Wood: Acqua di Parma ColoniaBest Gourmand Vanilla: Kenzo Amour Eau de ParfumBest '80s Option: Goutal Paris Eau d'HadrienBest Early 2000's Option: Frederic Malle Lipstick RoseBest Wood/Incense Perfume: L'Artisan Parfumeur Passage d'EnferWhy Vintage Perfumes Are Trending Again
"We are seeing a wave of nostalgia for all types of vintage fashion, like the recent explosion in '90s styling. Vintage fragrances are really great and as people delve deeper into perfume fandom, they are discovering a lot of fragrances that are older and realizing the variety that exists," she says.
If you've ever worn a classic perfume, you've likely noticed that they smell a bit different from modern varieties. As it turns out, there's a perfectly logical reason for that.
For instance, the perfume pro says that "heavy, powdery fragrances" like Chanel No. 5 were popular in the 1920s, while "stronger, heavier scents" like Yves Saint Laurent's Opium were more on trend in the 1980s. In the 1990s, "minimal, clear fragrances" like CK One and Clinique Happy were popular.
Why Some Vintage Scents Were Reformulated or Discontinued
You might assume that some vintage fragrances have been reformulated or discontinued simply because they weren't popular or didn't sell well. But Serrano-McClain says there's a regulating body called the International Fragrance Association (IFRA) that "recommends standards for ingredients in consumer beauty products."
Additionally, the availability of certain ingredients also plays a factor in the decision to reformulate or discontinue certain fragrances.
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"Wearing a particular scent on a given day can affect your whole mood," she says.
"Angel by Thierry Mugler is another scent that is so nostalgic for me. I remember asking my parents for it for Christmas when I was still in middle school. I'm amazed now looking back that Angel was considered the first gourmand fragrance," she says.
How To Wear Vintage Fragrances Today
Not sure how to make vintage fragrances work for your modern lifestyle? Serrano-McClain has one major tip: wear what you love.
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11 Vintage Fragrances That Deserve a Comeback, According to a Perfumer
1. Best Green Florals: Mughetto by Santa Maria Novella, $180
Santa Maria Novella
"I love lily of the valley-inspired scents," she says.
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2. Best Woody/Classic: Féminité du Bois by Serge Luten, $320
Serge Luten
"It has a huge dose of a beautiful, soft cedar with delicate violet. It's gorgeous," she says.
The brand describes Féminité du Bois as a "mythical, pure" scent that "expresses the masculine side of femininity and vice-versa."
3. Best Herbal/Chypre: Diptyque Philosykos Eau de Toilette, $140-190
Nordstrom
Shop It!The aromatic fragrance has notes of fig leaves, fig tree sap, fig tree wood and black pepper.
4. Best Calming Lavender: Yardley London English Lavender Eau de Toilette, $24.38
Walmart
Shop It!Serrano-McClain has even tried her hand at creating her own version of the fragrance.
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5. Best Understated Powdery: Dior J'adore Eau de Parfum, $180
Sephora
Shop It!Per the brand, J'adore has notes of golden ylang-ylang essence, fruity Grandiflorum, sambac, lily of the valley and Damascena rose.
6. Best Vintage Gourmand/Amber: Jo Malone Sweet Milk
Fragrantica
"It was a limited-edition collection, but I need it back," she says.
Although the perfume is no longer sold, Fragrantica has a record of the product on its website and lists the following additional fragrance notes: milk, caramel, bergamot, almond and musk.
7. Best Classic Citrus-Wood: Acqua di Parma Colonia Eau de Cologne, $165-299
Nordstrom
Shop It!The brand describes the fragrance as "vibrant" and "sophisticated" and says the perfume "embodies the spirit of Italian luxury" and captures "the dynamic spirit of a modern, metropolitan lifestyle."
8. Best Gourmand Vanilla: Kenzo Amour Eau de Parfum, $126.65
Macy's
Shop It!"It's a warm, tropical vanilla that's powdery on skin, but not heavy. Gourmand vanilla scents have been having such a renaissance," she says.
The brand describes the musky, woody, floral fragrance as "romantic and feminine." It has notes of white tea, cherry blossom, vanilla, white musk, thanaka wood and more.
9. Best '80s Option: Goutal Paris Eau d'Hadrien, $235
Goutal Paris
The brand describes the citrus fragrance, which dates back to 1981, as "fresh and elegant" and the "signature fragrance" of the brand. It has notes of lemon, citron, grapefruit, bergamot, musk, cypress, ylang-ylang and more.
10. Best Early 2000's Option: Frederic Malle Lipstick Rose, $225
Saks Fifth Avenue
Shop It!"I remember when Frederic Malle launched his brand and it all just felt so new. The name of the perfumer was right on the bottle, which was a first, as we typically never knew the artist behind the scent," she says.
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11. Best Wood/Incense Perfume: L'Artisan Parfumeur Passage d'Enfer, $225
L'Artisan Parfumeur
Shop It!"I loved that young me could wear this and express this different, more nuanced side of myself," she says.
Up Next:
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Source:
Anne Serrano-McClain is a perfumer at MCMC Fragrances, a Brooklyn-based perfume company that sources the highest quality ingredients from all over the world. Serrano-McClain studied at the Grasse Institute of Perfumery in southern France before starting her own fragrance line. During her studies, she took a year-long class on the history of perfumes, so she's particularly well-versed in vintage scents.Hence then, the article about 11 vintage fragrances that deserve a comeback was published today ( ) and is available on Parade ( Saudi Arabia ) The editorial team at PressBee has edited and verified it, and it may have been modified, fully republished, or quoted. You can read and follow the updates of this news or article from its original source.
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