Statins, costs of personal trainers and the occasional upset stomach aside, being a food writer is a pretty great job.
I’ve been lucky enough to travel the world to learn how people cook and eat — pestos in Genoa, Peking duck in Beijing, Portuguese-Chinese food in Macau. I’ve eaten a lot.
But there’s been one dish I’ve been dying to try for 20 years, ever since I read about it in a cookbook.
It’s a legendary French dish conceived by the chef Pierre Koffmann, and for a while it was only served at his three Michelin-starred restaurant in London. Since that restaurant, Le Tante Claire, closed in 2003, copycats of this dish have popped up at various places. I figured: I’ll only get to taste it in my mind.
The dish is a stuffed pig’s trotter — yes, the feet.
Many may recoil at the sound of this, but just stick with me. Plus, my Chinese parents grew up making the stuff; trotters get long braised in a soy marinade and it comes out gelatinous and tender, like pork belly.
In Pierre Koffmann’s interpretation, he removes the bones from the trotters until it’s only skin and fat. He would make a mousse out of chicken, which gets piped onto the piece of skin. Sweetbreads and morel mushrooms would get embedded into the mousse, and the whole thing is wrapped into a tube and roasted, then served on mashed potatoes and a rich reduction.
The result: Imagine a sausage loaf wrapped in pork belly. That’s at least how I imagined it in my head.
On YouTube, there’s a 41-minute video of Koffmann himself preparing his legendary dish. I can’t tell you how many nights I’ve put this video on and rewatched it — I immediately flow into a meditative state.
I never considered making it, as everything seems prohibitively expensive and laborious.
So imagine my surprise when I saw, in January, an Instagram video of chef Jenner Tomaska preparing Koffmann’s pig trotters at his new French bistro, Petite Edith, located at 878 N. Wells St.
In this week’s Food Guy segment, I had to visit Petite Edith to try this legendary dish myself.
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