Becoming a fully licensed cosmetologist in North Carolina takes 1,500 hours of studying hair, skin, and nail services – even if you just want to provide natural hair care.
Some community colleges are asking state lawmakers to consider lowering the number of required hours and creating lower-level licenses for certain services.
Heather Laws, Alamance Community College (Photo: NCGA screen capture)“To put this into perspective, to complete that program, a student would have to come 40 plus hours a week for nine months. It’s a full-time job,” said Heather Laws, Alamance Community College’s department head for cosmetology.
Laws told legislators that while some students want to earn the highest-tier license, the long hours simply don’t work for many. She said many are already working full-time while taking the courses at night, and some even sleep in their cars on their lunch break.
“We have single parents with children, and they’re trying to balance work and school, and all of the responsibilities of everyday life,” Laws said “The 1,500-hour pathway is not a good fit for every student that just wants to do hair.”
Members of a joint legislative oversight committee reviewed a draft proposal earlier this month that would create a new hair designer license requiring 1,000 hours. The bill would create a clear distinction between those who specialize in hair services and fully licensed cosmetologists who can also offer skin care, nail care, and certain chemical processes for treating hair. The bill would also eliminate a requirement of licensing apprentices.
Laws said the proposal would work well within the current community college structure while allowing students to begin earning income more quickly.
More than 30 states don’t regulate natural hair care
Sen. Natalie Murdock (D-Durham) (Photo: NCGA screen capture)Lynda Elliott, executive director of the North Carolina Board of Cosmetic Art Examiners, said she has no issue with the idea of a new hair designer license that could be earned more quickly.
But Elliot said she has real concerns about a proposal to certify people to provide natural hair care, like braids or locs, after only 10 hours of study in infection control. The current curriculum to become a licensed natural hair care specialist in North Carolina requires 300 or more hours of study.
Sen. Natalie Murdock (D-Durham) noted that 37 states have already deregulated natural hair care braiding.
“Are there concerns that you’ve heard from those other states after they took that action?” asked Murdock.
Elliot said while few states have had any problems, many require annual continuing education to ensure the workers stay up with the standards.
Lynda Elliott, executive director of the North Carolina Board of Cosmetic Art Examiners (Photo: NCGA screen capture)“It sounds simple, but we have communicable diseases that actually do live within our industry,” said Elliot. “You have to understand that disinfectant is a pesticide. You have to protect yourself.”
Elliot said North Carolina has a large number of natural hair designers who do impeccable work, but don’t speak English and would struggle to pass a licensure exam or understand infection control standards.
“Certification could still be that option, but some type of formal education needs to be provided as these services do pose health and safety risks,” Elliot warned.
Rep. Sarah Steven (R-Surry) suggested that as lawmakers consider modifying cosmetology, they also look at the requirements for barbers, who must train at least 1,528 hours and pass a state board exam to become licensed.
“I think we should perhaps look at that too, opening more opportunities for everybody to work,” said Stevens.
A pathway to a better paycheck
Rep. Sarah Stevens (R-Surry) (Photo: NCGA)The focus on helping this small segment of workers hang out a shingle comes as the state tries to reach a goal of two million residents with a high-quality credential or postsecondary degree by 2030. According to the statewide nonprofit myFutureNC, almost 40% of North Carolina adults ages 25 to 44 do not have a degree or credential. Only 58% of prime working-age adults earn a living wage.
Murdock said she’d like to see legislators work during the short session to find the right balance for those working in cosmetology, especially for those aspiring to start a business.
North Carolina’s community colleges have seen a 5% increase in students enrolled in cosmetology courses since 2022. The average annual pay for a hairdresser or a natural hair designer in North Carolina is about $42,500 a year, according to ZipRecruiter.
“So many stylists I know who leave their jobs so that they can go to school and get all of the requirements have [given] feedback that they think it’s burdensome compared to other states,” said Murdock. “I definitely think we can find a healthy medium.”
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